Gunks Bolted Rappel-Anchor Survey, hosted by the Gunks Climber's Coalition
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Sharing the GCC's post: |
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Thanks for posting this. I completed it. |
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cms829 wrote:No one wants to see the Gunks slowly turn into a sport climbing destinationI think you are wrong about that. Or maybe those that would love it to be a sport destination would oppose the "slowly" part? |
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never underestimate the probability that someone will turn an OP about rappel anchors into a discussion about sport climbing. |
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Replace gear/sling/tree rappel anchors with low visibility fixed rappel anchors which can be easily teplaced once worn. |
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Eric G. wrote:never underestimate the probability that someone will turn an OP about rappel anchors into a discussion about sport climbing.+1 Eric |
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I would like to hear some findings about how walk offs have been affecting the ecology of the cliff top as It is my preferred method of getting down the cliffs. |
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What I'd like to see most out of the rap anchors is keeping them in places out of climbing lines, and out of places that gather rocks that get knocked over the edge. I'm not terribly opposed to the idea of a little tag on them to tell you how long the rap is either. And a name. I've often gone to throw my rope and yelled rope and then come up blank as to the name of the route I'm planning on throwing down on. |
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gtluke wrote: The Madam G rap is fantastic. It doesn't collect rocks and it keeps you away from anyone climbing. I wish more were like that. Can you even do that rap with 1 rope? I forget. SEE!Yes. But not all the way to the ground from the top. There's another bolted rap station halfway down over by Northern Pillar. That rap was kind of a rite of passage before they placed the bolts on top ;) |
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Rapping from that tree would keep me from ever climbing again :) |
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While I agree that having rap anchors on trees has a negative environmental impact, I really don't think more bolted rap anchors are needed. At least in the Trapps, you're rarely more than a 5 minute walk from a bolted station. The problem is, unless you have intimate knowledge of the cliffs many of them are nearly impossible to find. I think this is the main reason we still see so many slung trees scattered around the cliffs. If the bolted stations were a little easier to find, people would be less inclined to use tree anchors to rappel. |
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Thanks for posting this, hopefully it has a positive impact. I'm all for replacing anything that is clearly unsafe or hurting the environment. I have seen plenty of both at the Gunks. |
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Scott Taber wrote:Thanks for posting this, hopefully it has a positive impact. I'm all for replacing anything that is clearly unsafe or hurting the environment. I have seen plenty of both at the Gunks.I agree with this. Last year was my first season living in new york, and finding rapp stations that weren't tree-tat I found to be frustrating, so I would often just rapp from whatever rings were around instead of wandering around overcliff. |
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cms829 wrote:there should be NO bolted anchors in areas where a safe gear anchor can easily be constructedWhen was the last time you set a gear anchor to rappel? |
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WillamR wrote:I would like to hear some findings about how walk offs have been affecting the ecology of the cliff top as It is my preferred method of getting down the cliffs.Impact wise, you are walking over a greater square footage of area, and likely using a web of trails along top of the cliff, so basic logic would tell us walking off has more impact then rappeling off the top which affects a smaller area sq ftage wise. |
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doublediamond100 wrote:The problem is, unless you have intimate knowledge of the cliffs many of them are nearly impossible to find. I think this is the main reason we still see so many slung trees scattered around the cliffs.I couldn't agree more... +1000. I agree this is the main problem right now I've had a recent visits. No signage = no use. There should be some small arrow or indicators to nearest rap. This would go a LONG way. . . |
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This survey is a little confusing. The wording seems to be aimed at showing support for adding bolt anchors versus determining whether that is the right approach. I can't access the survey from work, but one of the questions was worded to ask if some anchors are showing signs of an ecological impact - who could pick anything but agree? But that doesn't indicate the scope of the problem - 1 anchor in 10? In 100? |
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Morgan Patterson wrote: When was the last time you set a gear anchor to rappel?Never, obviously (I wasnt referring to RAP anchors). But I also dont ALWAYS rap the same route ive climbed if an easier or safer rap is only a climb or two away. Im saying that not ALL routes need bolted anchors, nor should ALL routes be rapped. |
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Morgan Patterson wrote: I couldn't agree more... +1000. I agree this is the main problem right now I've had a recent visits. No signage = no use. There should be some small arrow or indicators to nearest rap. This would go a LONG way. . .That "signage" is already up- take a good look at your guidebook BEFORE climbing. The photos in the back of the book show you the nearest established rap. |
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cms829 wrote: That "signage" is already up- take a good look at your guidebook BEFORE climbing. The photos in the back of the book show you the nearest established rap.That is not a practical solution. Many climbers will forget. Others will get lost as some rappels aren't visible without some scrambling down to find them - something a less experienced climber or one unfamiliar with the area may not be willing to do. They will end up using whatever they can find. |
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re: "convenience signage", this is only a pretext. Once someone installs a sign at the top of the cliff, signs are going to pop up near the parking lot, near the uber-pooper and even at the top of the stairmaster. |