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Best summer sport climbing?

Original Post
Dan Austin · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 0

Hi everybody,

I live in SF (for about 10 months now), and I'm looking to get out for a few weekends to clip some bolts. Likely looking at day trips or maybe camping. I've got a short list of places to check out, but have heard/read conflicting reports on how climbable they'll be in the summer months. What I'm looking for is a manageable drive (ideally <4 hours one way) and relatively long (60+ ft) sport pitches, with 5.11 being the sweet spot, but a little harder or softer being fine too.

Any feedback on the list below (are there shady walls or will I turn into a puddle within minutes of greasing up the wall?) or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Tahoe area:
- Big Chief
- The Benches
- Luther Rock

Sonora area:
- A variety of crags (some which I understand are at a higher elevation and will be relatively cooler, and others that would probably only be climbable before noon)

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

Tioga wall has some 5.11s.

splitclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 18

mayhem cove in emerald bay
bowman lake/emeralds
in SF area check out mt. st. Helena for cooler days

Court · · SLAKETAHOE · Joined May 2013 · Points: 125
Elephant Graveyard

Wright's Lake Cliff

Luther Rock is also good. People will tell you it's too hot and you'll bake mid summer but that really only applies to the approach and it's not really that bad.
Kelley Gilleran · · Meadow Vista · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 2,812

Emeralds has shade till 1pm @ 5000'

Bowman is usually in the sun by 10ish @ 7000' except for b-word which is mostly shaded.

Big Chief faces south.

SPH (sonora pass highway 108) has a ton of climbing that you would need a guidebook to find $42 for the new one.

Mayhem Cove has parking issues.

Donner has got some good stuff on the Snowshed, Star, Space, and Road Cut.

That should keep you busy for a few years.....

Cheers

Tony Sartin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 472

Bear Crag

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385
Tony Sartin wrote:Bear Crag
Just make sure you bring a helmet, I broke a hold off almost every route I got on there a few weeks ago. . .
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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