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What kind of climbing do you use your mythos for?

Original Post
Paul Wilhelmsen · · sandy, ut · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 231

I've heard many people rail on mythos, and just as many people swear by them; maybe swear by their comfort not their performance anyway.

So my question to you mythos users out there, What kind of climbing do they excel at? Aside from edging do they have any big shortcomings?

There is no particular reason for the questions (i.e. I'm not trolling), I'm just curious why people like them.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

long trad routes..I keep it pretty easy peasy but I know guys that climb almost anything in them.

Aeon Aki · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2006 · Points: 3,650

Paul -

The Mythos is as popular as it is mainly because it will fit practically every size, shape and volume of foot out there. The nature of the lacing system allows you to adjust every aspect of the shoe (including the heel) and in a short period of time, will stretch to fit like it was custom molded for you.

I prefer to use the Mythos for straight-in cracks and moderate multi-pitch climbing but know some elite athletes who use it for their hardest sends in the mountains. I've seen people boulder V8 in the Mythos as well and there are also some fashion forward city folk who think they go great with jeans for daily use.

Enjoy!

Seth Derr · · harrisburg, pa · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 2,260

Only wear them when trad climbing when it's cold as shit outside and i won't be trying hard anyway. Mine are a bit too big and are the only shoes i have that i can wear with thick socks. Otherwise i don't love them.

JPVallone · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 195

I don't have them anymore but when I had a pair, I mostly used them rock climbing

frankstoneline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 30

mostly into and out of bed. occasionally up the stairs to start the coffee.

Victor K · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 170

I use my Mythos for moderate multi-pitch and easy soloing in the Flatirons. I love being able to feel every wrinkle in the rock through the soles. the "smedging" and smearing performance is great as well. As a guy with a super low volume foot, the fit is a huge feature. I would be very sad if La Sportiva stops making them.

Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 45

Any climbing where super small (i.e., dime edges) feet don't come in to play.

They really train your feet well, too: I climbed with them in the gym for a winter season and noticed a huge improvement in my footwork and toe strength when I switched back to a more aggressive shoe for more technical routes.

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

I climb everything in my Mythos. I have a pair of Miuras, too, and most days I'd rather just wear my Mythos. The Miuras are less comfortable, and don't offer any real advantage. Maybe a tiny bit better edging.

I think the better fit of the Mythos translates into better performance than the decent fit of my more aggressive Miuras.

And I can wear them all day.

Dave Alie · · Golden, CO · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 75
teece303 wrote:The Miuras ... don't offer any real advantage. Maybe a tiny bit better edging.
Respectfully disagree. In my experience, Miuras offer substantially better edging. No contest.

Back to the larger point, the mythos stretch to accommodate most any foot shape, as mentioned up thread, but they're really not fantastic shoes by today's standards, IMO. They're comfortable for straight in hand cracks, but they've got a high profile that can be a pain to work with on thinner cracks. It's a common refrain in conversations about the Mythos, but saying something excels at hand cracks and all day easy trad climbing is soft praise; every shoe ever made climbs splitter hands well. Most approach shoes climb hand cracks or super easy trad well.

The one area where I'd single out the mythos would be smearing. I had a pair that was super soft and super sensitive. If you can get into that style of shoe, they're pretty good in that one regard. Almost like a lower volume moccasym.
DesertRat · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 196

I use mine for everything, except straight jams. I have blown the seems on mine from rubbing them inside the crack. I tend to like moccasyms for the swimming hand cracks.

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

I like them on blank sandstone, they are also a great shoe for really small cracks, no other shoe chisels down to a point like an oversized mythos. They'll definitely get your feet strong!

Paul Wilhelmsen · · sandy, ut · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 231

Thanks for all the responses, especially those who kept this thread polite and on-topic.

Kind of what was to be expected then. The consensus is that they're super comfy and sensitive, but no real edging to speak of.

One last question, I'm little surprised I haven't heard much about slab, how do they do on granite slab? I'm finding myself doing more and more slab (it kind of goes in phases) and I assumed that because they are the softest shoe I know of, that they would be really good at friction climbing.

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

Since you mention it...I mostly use mine for slab climbing.

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

Mine do great on slab: I've only worn my Miuras on slab once, and I haven't done that again.

Paul-B · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 115

Rock climbing. Haven't tried them for ice yet.

Joe Crawford · · Truckee, CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 105

the best slab shoe around for me. really easy to get a comfortable, yet well fit shoe that excels on slab, does well on cracks and can edge well enough on well textured rock. I won't wear them for any (non-slab) climb at or near my limit. Best ever shoe for moderate long routes with a scramble or walk off.

Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 45
teece303 wrote:Mine do great on slab: I've only worn my Miuras on slab once, and I haven't done that again.
miura velcros or lace-ups? I find the lace ups actually work pretty well on slabs but the velcros seem to fit like a bouldering shoe
GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

They are great for "easy slab" where you are trying to paste as much rubber on the rock as possible, but for "hard slab" where you are trying to get your shoe to stick to a tiny edge I use a stiff shoe, right now its the TC Pro. Places like the Buttermilks, Toulumne, Pine Creek, etc I prefer a stiff shoe. The master of hard slab-Daryl Hensel- is still crushing 5.13- slab and uses OLD board lasted shoes.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

I used my new Mythos today to climb Chapel Pond Slab. These things are so comfortable I wore them on the walk off back to the truck.. The sky opened up and Ts stormed. I kept my walk off shoes in the pack so they would stay dry. I'm happy to say the Mythos were very comfortable.

I've used the Mythos at the gym, cracks and crazy face climbing. They seem to be the jack of all trades.

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

I'm not really trying to say my Mythos are better than my Miuras. Rather, I'm much more used to them than my Miuras, so I often climb better in them.

I strongly suspect if we gave Sharma or DiGulian a pair of Mythos, they'd still onsight 14a or whatever, they'd just bitch the whole time. You can get used to any shoe.

And I'm really used to my Mythos.

They are not the best for some things, but they are a fine shoe that is damn comfy.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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