Type: | Sport |
FA: | Snively, Gillett, Huntsman |
Page Views: | 3,384 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on May 31, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
Given the name of the adjacent route to the left, "Law School" we were tempted to call this one "Walking the Green Mile". This is currently the furthest east (right) route on the rock. Scramble up to the first clip and wander past a few more hard to see clips until you can step left into a large, right-facing dihedral lined in fist-sized and larger quartz crystals, (some of questionable solidity). Step back right at the top, surmount a short headwall (crux), and get on the "Green Mile". This is a long, very fine grained, green intrusion that the rest of the climb follows. We were all tempted to use the fat crystals to either side, but in the end we all "Walked the Mile". Be aware that the clips are a long way apart through this section and several are impossible to see until your right on top of them. I would not suggest this route to a 5.9 leader whose only experience is in "Sport Bolted" climbs. The climbing up "The Mile" is probably only in the 5.7 range, but the leader needs to be comfortable running it out a bit. (As an aside, we also top-roped a direct connection to the headwall section, avoiding the traverse left into the dihedral staying well to the right. Excellent edging and if bolted would only take 3 clips or so as a variation, 10a/b, and would be a stupendous route.)
Descent
It's a double rope rap to get off (or 2 raps (single rope) using the intermediate anchors of "Law School" directly below to the west, down 75').
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