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Solo Rope climbing

Original Post
Rich Welker · · Riverside, CA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 145

Hey guys! I've recently been interested in solo rope climbing and have done a little research on it. I'm hoping to find helpful input. I was wondering if I decided to setup a bottom anchor and lead climb (whether sport or trad) with a Grigri belay device be sufficient. I understand there is a belay device called the "soloist" is out there but im not certain what the main difference is. I know that a Grgri would auto lock in case of a fall, as long as i was were above pro. I also understand putting in back up knots as you climb higher. Any input or advice is greatly appreciated. Especially any recommended gear. Thank you, Rich

Rich Welker · · Riverside, CA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 145

And I was assuming that the belay device would be attached to my harness during the lead climb.

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

The biggest bitch with using a GriGri for roped solo lead is it locks up shortropes you. Granted there are ways to ease the problem, but you will never eliminate the problem. Using the death mod will help a lot though with that issue, but if you use a thick rope the GriGri is still going to lock inadvertently once and awhile.

The soloist, and better yet the Silent Partner, wont short rope you as long as the rope does not get tangled. You dont need a chest harness with the Silent Partner, and you dont need to modify it either.

Either works fine, but the Soloist and Silent Partner will feed much easier. The Silent Partner is by far the safest option of the three, and the only option I would feel safe using sub 10mm ropes with.

Rich Welker · · Riverside, CA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 145

Thank you very much! I appreciate it!

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 969

You are going to die.

Capt. Impatient · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0

Get a device that is made for rope soloing. Last I read on the soloist is that it is discontinued. So look around and get one soon If you do. So what you have to wear a chest harness. You are by yourself so stack all odds in your favor. Be sure to have a bail biner / oh shit kit (2 Prussiks, small knife, tibloc, extra biners) on your harness. I learned this first hand. Check youtube under rope soloing (Aron stack videos) good info there on lead soloing with a soloist. Happy soloing.

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

?shameless plug: Soloist for sale?

Nick Votto · · CO, CT, IT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

I've used the Soloist for about 8 years and love it, have probably done around 150-200 pitches on it.....MOST of these have been top rope solos though, which are a breeze. Leading on it is a little more complicated but still very reliable once you get the hang of it. I use it with a 9.5mm btw.

Thinking about buying another one actually as it's the most reliable partner I've ever had, and may not be around much longer.
Heard the Silent Partner is also great but haven't used one, it costs a lot more too.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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