Hangboard Training (Rock Prodigy) Timing

Back in January when I installed and first began training on a new Rock Prodigy hangboard, I was looking around for a simple timer to use for the workouts. I ended up instead finding a very complicated app. But over the course of a bunch of sessions it has totally proven itself: The initial, upfront investment in learning how to use it and program it has greatly eased (well, simplified) my training. Anyway, it is just too good not to share. Of course, if I was as sophisticated as Mark Anderson, I'm sure I could use the simple kitchen timer he has mounted on his board - but I know I'd inevitably lose count of where I was at during any given point in the workout (I really like to just zone out... er, uh, focus) and I've appreciated how this app spells out what I'm doing and, conveniently, what's next.

Here's how it works - along with some screen shots...

First, I laboriously programmed in a complicated timer (this took a half hour or so, but was relatively easy to do):

Timer Programming

You can see the name of the timer ("Hangboard") along with the ability to scroll through and modify sub-timers (I have them broken down by sets).

Below you can see the timer in action. Here it's shown in landscape mode. You'll notice that this is my very first rep of my first set of my first grip: 7 seconds of Open Crimping. The timer indicates that this is Interval 2/216 because Interval 1/216 is a 10-second long (see the elapsed time) "Prep" interval at the beginning of the entire workout. The total time of my workout is 1:13:16:

First rep, first set, first grip

4 seconds later, when there are just 3 seconds left in the rep, the timer alerts me of what the next interval is - in this case "Rest":

Up Next: Rest

Rest between reps is 3 seconds. I've color-coded the timer with green for go and red for rest, but this too can be customized. In practice, I often just look at the colors which keeps me from mentally "counting" the seconds and frees me to focus on exactly how my fingers and body feel:

Rest.

When I've finished the final rep of the first set of a grip, my timer gives me 3 minutes of rest and prompts me to prepare for the next set (a chance to adjust weights and take notes on how the first set went):

Prepare for the next set.

If I'm interrupted for some reason, a simple tap on the screen will pause the timer. A second tap will start it again. The small arrows in the lower right hand part of the screen allow me to advance forward or rewind one interval at a time:

Pause, FFW, RRW

Finally, the timer also works in portrait mode. This has the advantage of showing a scrolling list of intervals and exactly where I'm at and what's upcoming, but I never use this screen as I find it crowded and, frankly, all I need to know is what I'm doing at that moment and what's immediately forthcoming:

Portrait mode

One final, notable feature: My girlfriend also uses the app and since we sync phones to the same computer, she was able to download it on her phone for free. What's even better is the app allows you to share timers - so once I had painstakingly created this timer, it was only a few taps before she had the same timer saved in her app (easily modifiable to her needs). I'd be happy to share my routine with anyone who wants it.

The app is called "Seconds Pro". I tried the free version first and really liked it, but due to built-in limitations I was unable to create the workout I needed. I somewhat cautiously forked over the $5 for the full version and have never regretted the purchase. And no, I do not work for Seconds Pro.

That's really funny; I use the same app for my hangboard workouts and have set it up exactly like you, even the green/red backgrounds for hang/rest intervals!

But I agree, the Seconds Pro app is a phenomenal way to organize your hangboard workouts: click start when you're ready to go and it'll run to the end of your workout.

One additional thing I did was to set a 1 minute prep period at the start of the timer so that I can click start and it gives me a little time to clip on weight, chalk up and psych myself up to go. Otherwise you are clicking start and hopping immediately on the board when it starts timing.

Yes, I have a 10-second prep period at the beginning of the workout (great minds think alike)!

Wow Josh! That looks super awesome. I may need to finally upgrade my flip phone!

fantastic, I will give this app a try. I have become adpet at using the ditigal kitchen timer, but there is at least a 2 to 3 second loss every time I reset back to zero to start the 3 minute rest intervals so this seems to be a more accurate approach.

Sounds great, the APP website says that you can share with other users, is there a way to email the settings?

Correct. Timer files are shared via email then imported into the app.

Same hang-board, but I use a metronome set to sixty beats per minute.

What I really want to know is - can you do the medium pinch? Even with a massive counterweight I still slide right off or cheat by sneaking some fingertips above the ledge of the pinch.

schaefer wrote:What I really want to know is - can you do the medium pinch? Even with a massive counterweight I still slide right off or cheat by sneaking some fingertips above the ledge of the pinch.

I can body weight hang but can't do repeaters w/ the medium pinch, I can w/ the large pinch. And if you look at one of mono's recent training logs, he can't add much weight doing repeaters w/ that grip, so it's not supposed to be easy.

Looks great! Maybe slightly less sophisticated (but free) is the Interval Timer app for iPhone. It essentially does the same thing (sets up on/rest cycles with times that are user defined, including total amount of sets).

schaefer wrote: What I really want to know is - can you do the medium pinch? Even with a massive counterweight I still slide right off or cheat by sneaking some fingertips above the ledge of the pinch.

Ah, the medium pinch...for my first strength phase I was able to progress until I plateaued at +15lbs, then I had to cheat and go finger tips over the edge to keep increasing resistance. This got me an additional five weeks of progression (I had Monomaniac's blessing on this :)

I have found that it is key to have low humidity and temps as well as keeping the hold clean to prevent from sliding off.

Also, I am finding that now that I have the hangboard installation adjustable for distance between hands, it is more ergonomic to hold to al the grips by adjusting the spacing. I am still trying to dial the distance for the pinch holds so I can load my shoulder properly and do not shrug in. I recommend going to the adjustable set-up if you haven't done so already.

I am just starting my second strength phase and once more the medium is the most difficult hold to progress...currently at -25lbs after 3 sessions.

reboot wrote: ... And if you look at one of mono's recent training logs, he can't add much weight doing repeaters w/ that grip, so it's not supposed to be easy.

Since we're keeping track, it's also worth noting that I've sanded much of the texture off my pinches :)

The real question is, can anyone dead hang the SMALL pinches?

NO! Even with all the texture on, those things are impossible to hold...I was hoping to master the medium grips before starting on them

Monomaniac wrote: Since we're keeping track, it's also worth noting that I've sanded much of the texture off my pinches :) The real question is, can anyone dead hang the SMALL pinches?

But I only have access to the grungy hangboards in climbing gyms :) I actually did buy a brand new one & gave it to a friend to bring back to China. Now it's proudly hanging in the largest climbing gym in Shanghai, next to the Beastmaker 2000 another friend donated. They even made the sliding mechanism:

RPTC in Shanghai

No comments on the pinches (I use the medium and am fine with it for now - it goes last in my routine as it's the least important hold to me).

Question/comment about the teeny-tiny crimp (does it have a name?):

I find that between reps I have more success if I keep my fingers in contact with and engaged with the hold (merely putting my feet down). My theory is that once I allow the blood to flow back into my fingertips - which happens the moment I take my fingers off this hold - the pain and sweat and weakness begins.

Anyone else discover this?

Another question: Is there a proper "form" for two finger pockets? In the case of I/M pockets, sometimes I fold my thumb across my ring finger (like I'm making a peace sign) and it feels fine, but other times I feel strain in my tendons and prefer to keep my thumb open (extended). Same for the M/R pockets.

Monomaniac wrote: Since we're keeping track, it's also worth noting that I've sanded much of the texture off my pinches :) The real question is, can anyone dead hang the SMALL pinches?

HA!!! It never even occured to me that I should try hanging from the small pinches!!! I just thought they were there to go from medium to large. . .Can't even imagine how strong I would have to be!

Mark are you hanging from the small ones? what % of body weight are you taking off???

reboot wrote: ...I actually did buy a brand new one & gave it to a friend to bring back to China. Now it's proudly hanging in the largest climbing gym in Shanghai, next to the Beastmaker 2000 another friend donated. They even made the sliding mechanism:

That's awesome! Looks like someone in China is using the small pinch :)

That's pretty damn helpful, thanks. I've got some pretty serious muscle memory on the crappy kitchen timer I bought for this purpose but this looks a lot better. Now I need to figure out how to mount my phone. Errr...hang my phone.

Josh Janes wrote:... Question/comment about the teeny-tiny crimp (does it have a name?): I find that between reps I have more success if I keep my fingers in contact with and engaged with the hold (merely putting my feet down). My theory is that once I allow the blood to flow back into my fingertips - which happens the moment I take my fingers off this hold - the pain and sweat and weakness begins. Anyone else discover this? ...

I've noticed that with various painful holds, "thin crimp" included. Usually its more of a skin pain issue, and sometimes it hurts more on the first set, but once I'm warm there's far less pain.

Josh Janes wrote:... Another question: Is there a proper "form" for two finger pockets? In the case of I/M pockets, sometimes I fold my thumb across my ring finger (like I'm making a peace sign) and it feels fine, but other times I feel strain in my tendons and prefer to keep my thumb open (extended). Same for the M/R pockets.

If I curly my RP fingers too much during the IM grip I get a lot of pain in the fascia between my M and R fingers (at the base of the fingers). I actually hold an empty film canister (remember those?) in my R and P fingers to prevent them from curling too tightly.

During the MR grip, I find it helps a lot to keep my P finger pointed upwards, scumming on the board. If I curl my P down, I get the same pain at the base of the fingers between my R and P fingers.

I haven't noticed any issues resulting from thumb position. I tend to keep it curled over the inactive I finger or film canister.

GhaMby wrote: Mark are you hanging from the small ones? what % of body weight are you taking off???

I've never actually trained on the small pinches, but I've tried them when messing around with friends. They seem really hard, and I have doubts about their practicality. The original design just had a 1" diameter hole to stick your thumb in for the medium pinch. I realized if I made it a channel instead of a hole there would be a third pinch size, so its really just a happy accident. Its good for parties though!

Monomaniac wrote: I've never actually trained on the small pinches, but I've tried them when messing around with friends. They seem really hard, and I have doubts about their practicality. The original design just had a 1" diameter hole to stick your thumb in for the medium pinch. I realized if I made it a channel instead of a hole there would be a third pinch size, so its really just a happy accident. Its good for parties though!

Yeah, they don't seem to be too practical, but it would be a great party trick! I'm not even close to being able to think about hanging off of those things, I'm happy to get three sets of 6 x 7 second reps on the large pinches at body weight after nine workouts (I started at -25).