One hip turned into wall or both hips parallel to wall?

I have been watching the Self-Taught Climber DVD and it talks and shows a lot of turning hips into the wall and grabbing next hold with the same side hand. I was at the climbing gym today and was on a 80 degree wall and an instructor said i should always keep my hips turned out from the wall, both of them.

So, what is right, or when is one right and when is it wrong? It felt pretty good turning my hip in and grabbing with the same side hand on some routes.

Thanks

Good techniques tips in this video, including the twist-lock (I think that's what you are referring to)...

youtu.be/Usee0F_Ya98

jamesldavis1 wrote:I was at the climbing gym today and was on a 80 degree wall and an instructor said i should always keep my hips turned out from the wall, both of them.

He/she is sort of right: 80 degree is slab, and it's generally better to have you hip away from the wall (over your feet). On vertical to overhanging wall, when foot holds allow, turning your hip into the wall makes your center of gravity closer to being over your feet, lessening the force on your arms.

reboot wrote: He/she is sort of right: 80 degree is slab, and it's generally better to have you hip away from the wall (over your feet). On vertical to overhanging wall, when foot holds allow, turning your hip into the wall makes your center of gravity closer to being over your feet, lessening the force on your arms.

Thanks, I figured there were scenarios where both held true.

Shame on the instructor if they said "always". It's just not that simple.

Situations where turning to the side MAY be appropriate: you can sidepull a good hold and it's a long reach to the next hold; and/or the high foothold is in front of you rather than off to one side; and/or the rock is steep.

But there's no "always" in rock movement. And probably no "never" either.

Paula C wrote:Good techniques tips in this video, including the twist-lock (I think that's what you are referring to)... youtu.be/Usee0F_Ya98

My favorite part of the video is the intro. The guy is climbing, exactly how I did when I first started. I was like yes, I'm doing what the video says....then bam! Flashing in red, "WRONG!"

"Always" is being taken to literal. When applicable is probably more appropriate.

The general rule is if a climb is overhung, you are more likely to use flagging or drop knees (both involve twisting the hip in to reach up with the hand on the same side) and if the climb is more vertical, you are more likely to open up your hips and bring your crotch to the wall to get your weight into your feet. Slabby you might even stick your butt out.

But in practice this general rule is not going to help you that much right now. It might help if you can't do a move and you break it down trying the different techniques. But overall you just have to climb hundreds if not thousands of climbs before the techniques become second nature. Watching other people climb (especially those guys that never seem to be working very hard but always make it to the the top) will help too.