|
James Schroeder
·
Jul 30, 2014
·
Fort Collins, CO
· Joined May 2002
· Points: 3,166
jeff lebowski wrote:Hell yeah I'd say something. Hanging on a 10a! Climber should get a steady stream of insults from all present. Congrats on a humid day in July is the epitome of a 10a sandbag. Think about the most polished piece of stone you've ever been on. Now imagine a rattly-finger-sized crack, breaching that polished stone. Now further imagine someone coating the inside of that crack with warm, melted butter. That is Congrats in July. Doesn't sound 10a, does it?
|
|
K R
·
Jul 30, 2014
·
CA
· Joined Jan 2014
· Points: 50
I was told there's a failure mode for Grigri where leader takes gently and device does not engage. So in this situation even tho it's locked, if the leader unweighted it to start an attempt and then gently sits back down (on a thin rope), it could fail to engage. Brake hand is recommended tho the risk is low.
|
|
BruceH
·
Jul 30, 2014
·
New Harmony, UT
· Joined Mar 2011
· Points: 45
|
|
FrankPS
·
Jul 30, 2014
·
Atascadero, CA
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 276
BruceH wrote:Something. Finally, it's been said. Thank you, Bruce.
|
|
Tony B
·
Jul 30, 2014
·
Around Boulder, CO
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 24,665
Pontoon wrote:I was told there's a failure mode for Grigri where leader takes gently and device does not engage. So in this situation even tho it's locked, if the leader unweighted it to start an attempt and then gently sits back down (on a thin rope), it could fail to engage. Brake hand is recommended tho the risk is low. Most certainly exists when the rope is pulled down across the hing of the release lever... but the tension has to be just right.
|
|
roger fritz
·
Jul 30, 2014
·
Rockford, IL
· Joined Aug 2009
· Points: 60
Petzl has a great instruction manual that will show you how to properly use this device. It is good practice to read instruction manuals or guide others to do so. Grigri experience.
|
|
good pro
·
Jul 30, 2014
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2014
· Points: 25
|
|
teece303
·
Jul 30, 2014
·
Highlands Ranch, CO
· Joined Dec 2012
· Points: 596
My friends didn't look so newbish, but I have had (VERY) experienced friends take hands off the rope when the climber is hanging on a Gri Gri. Be honest: the risk is tiny. Especially if the climbers are experienced and know their partner and are unlikely to be surprised by their actions. Is this belayer experienced? Should you talk to her? I dunno. We would need to see a lot more than this picture.
|
|
Adam Reke
·
Jul 30, 2014
·
Boulder, CO
· Joined May 2013
· Points: 10
of course, I'd say "hey baby what's your number??"
|
|
BruceH
·
Jul 30, 2014
·
New Harmony, UT
· Joined Mar 2011
· Points: 45
Adam Reke wrote:of course, I'd say "hey baby what's your number??" I would start with something like: "Now that your hands are free..." (Sorry, raining here in Salt Lake. Should be out climbing tomorrow, hoping to avoid the paparazzi.)
|
|
Jack Ubaek
·
Jul 30, 2014
·
tucson
· Joined Apr 2011
· Points: 20
"hey mind if i blitz your trailmix?"
|
|
Craig Childre
·
Jul 30, 2014
·
Lubbock, TX
· Joined Aug 2006
· Points: 4,860
Paula C wrote:I recently had this conversation when reviewing how to use a Gri-Gri: Other person: "If the climber falls while you're paying out slack, take your hands totally off and it will lock up." Me: "I'm not comfortable with that. I'll use my ATC." I overheard this exact conversation while in Potreo! I had been climbing less than a year, and walked off before it sunk in how wrong this advise was. Who trains a belayer to let go of the rope in any situation? Only point is after the climber has been fully lowered.
|
|
B Gilmore
·
Jul 30, 2014
·
AZ
· Joined Nov 2005
· Points: 1,260
gri-gri's don't drop people... people drop people.
|
|
BigCountry
·
Jul 30, 2014
·
The High Country
· Joined May 2012
· Points: 20
|
|
Tony B
·
Jul 30, 2014
·
Around Boulder, CO
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 24,665
Bryan Gilmore wrote:gri-gri's don't drop people... people drop people. Of course, a lot more frequently when belaying incorrectly...
|
|
Joan Lee
·
Jul 30, 2014
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2014
· Points: 140
What if it was on a big wall and she was taking a dump? I that case I would say : where are your knee pads? Amateurs....
|
|
Mike Cara
·
Jul 30, 2014
·
Hendersonville, NC
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 21
This is the price of wanting to climb and your regular partner is out of town. You strap a gri-gri on the girlfriend/wife.
|
|
Mike Belu
·
Jul 30, 2014
·
Chicago, IL
· Joined Jun 2012
· Points: 135
I'd either say 1) hey that guy is taking your picture. 2) flex up "tommy boy" style and ask "if the gym's over there." 3) is it OK to bring a crag-dog here, I promise he's well behaved.
|
|
Tony B
·
Jul 31, 2014
·
Around Boulder, CO
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 24,665
David Sahalie wrote:Hate myself for trying to picture smellanor dropping a duece while on it's knees. Have to remind her to pull down the pants FIRST...
|
|
ChefMattThaner
·
Jul 31, 2014
·
Lakewood, co
· Joined May 2013
· Points: 246
Yeah that limiting knot in her anchor sling is totally weakening that sling. Good catch Tab!
|