Type: Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches
FA: Chris Hirsch, belayed by Luke Ross, Lee Terveen, Jack Torness (Ground-up) 7/14
Page Views: 3,060 total · 26/month
Shared By: Chris Hirsch on Jul 20, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description Suggest change

This hidden treasure climbs the bomber finger/hands crack system right between Outer Outlet and Vertigo. Currently, this is the only other route that summits Vertigo. Very unique with wild and WIDE stemming and a transition from one formation to the other. I don't believe this has ever been climbed before, surprisingly. A must-do!!

1) 5.7 70'
Start in either gully and take the easiest path up to the chockstone belay in the saddle between Vertigo and Outer. Natural belay.

2) 5.11+ 130'
Two options to start. On Outer Outlet, the left crack climbs and protects better right away but has a thin traverse right to join the main line. The direct start over the roof has decking potential before you can get a second piece of gear in. Choose wisely ;). Continue to link the vertical slashes, while getting excellent gear. Just when the crack flares and gear becomes meager begin the groin stretching. Stem for about 15' up and then to the North to find another perfect crack on Vertigo that will take you to the top.

Location Suggest change

Route climbs right in the center of the narrow passage between Outer Outlet and Vertigo. Either rap back down the route (80m rope), or rap the original Vertigo route (one 70m rope??). Location Coordinates: 43.848738, -103.567899

Protection Suggest change

Double rack to BD#2 & single #3 (to protect beginning roof)
Nuts
Long slings

Photos

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