Elevation: | 1,197 ft |
GPS: |
49.7316, 6.0645 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 41,245 total · 222/month |
Shared By: | B L on Jan 16, 2009 · Updates |
Admins: | Shawn Heath |
Description
The only crag in Luxembourg that is not closed for climbing is Berdorf. The rock is sandstone, hard on the surface, soft below. Holds break regularly! The protection is generally very good with glue-in bolts, even though recently, new routes have been added with poor equipment (expansion bolts that are unsuitable for sandstone). Note that new routing is unfortunately currently illegal in Luxembourg.
Due to the many cities for which it is the closest "easy" crag, as well as the high density of classic moderates, the short approach and the nice surrounding, Berdorf gets extremely crowded when the weather is good, to the point where visiting on nice weekends cannot be recommended.
Getting There
The crag is located on the outskirts of the village of Berdorf, Luxembourg, close to the German border. There are two places that you can park to approach the crags:
1) From the "Martbusch" camping site, which is next to the village's information center, there is a large, paved parking lot. Coordinates are 49.827036, 6.342946. Note that as of early May, 2022, the Google Maps map, satellite imagery and Street View are out of date - they do not show the new information center or large, paved parking lot.
From the large, paved parking lot by the information center, you'll follow trails generally north-northeast to reach the southern end of the cliffs (climbing sector Infernale). This approach is used by those staying at the private campground and the majority of hikers who visit the area.
2) Climbers appear to generally use the following approach from a parking lot at the end of a single lane road to the northeast of the climbing. Go to a four-way intersection that is just north of Berdorf (coordinates of 49.830355, 6.352137). At this four-way intersection, the road you want is the paved road that is left of center and has a round international "do not enter" sign with an exception for bicycles and horses. Ignore the sign and drive about 550 meters to a parking area on the left side of the single lane road (coordinates of 49.833957, 6.346828). About 100 meters before the parking, there will be a picnic area and cell tower on the left side of the single lane road.
From the parking at the end of the single lane road, follow the obvious trail roughly southwest into the woods. After about 150 meters, the main trail will descend into the sandstone strata. Keep following this obvious trail down through a hole between two boulders and down stairs past really cool crevices, and short cliffs covered in beautiful moss and ferns. Keep following the trail and stairs down and roughly 400 yards from the parking, you'll arrive at the northernmost end of the cliff, at the climbing sector Sieweschloeff (as of May 2022, "Sieweschloeff" was prominently painted on the wall. This sector was also closed to climbing).
Continue following the obvious trail and stairs down and you'll encounter all of the other sectors, which will generally all be above the trail on the left.
Classic Climbing Routes at Luxembourg
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