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Have a laugh at my expense.

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

finally found a use for a PAS.

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175
Joan Lee wrote: The difference between you and me is that I actually climb outside (lead trad too),.
If this is true...
The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460
Jon Zucco wrote: I'm guessing he was attached in direct to the hangar with the sling, and unintentionally pulled the chain through the sling to thread the rope. Voila. Could happen to anyone using slings to go in direct. Not a big deal really. Just a pain in the ass when you don't notice it until you've fed out the whole rope for rappel.
Yup, you're mistake made you human, the fact that you checked makes you a human who is not a dumb ass. I don't think I've ever done exactly that, but I have rigged rappels wrong after a long day and had to re-do things after a final check. That's why we have redundancy. And self check our work, those who don't are the ones we want to laugh at. But often don't because they were killed/injured.
Davis Chuckenhower · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

I'm pretty new to climbing, so excuse my ignorance (or don't), but wouldn't the sling simply fall off the chain to the base of the climb after the rope is pulled?

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Davis Chuckenhower wrote:I'm pretty new to climbing, so excuse my ignorance (or don't), but wouldn't the sling simply fall off the chain to the base of the climb after the rope is pulled?
Yes, or not get far at all or get hung up in foliage and become either booty or litter. And of course no longer a part of the owner's rack.

A little $$ to replace, but almost* zero impact regarding safety. I say "almost" because there is the possibility of entanglement with the rope during the pull-down, possibly resulting in a stuck rope.
doug rouse · · Denver, CO. · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 660

The bouldering comment was the one that got me

BigFeet · · Texas · Joined May 2014 · Points: 385

I would like to get some clarification on this picture/situation.

How did this sling become oriented in this position?

If the sling was being used as a type of PAS why is it not still attached to the anchor/chain by a locker? It does not appear to be attached to the climber's harness either. What is the sling connected to (out of frame) on the right? From my perspective it appears to just be a naked sling flopping in the wind.

If the sling is in this position and not attached to the harness how did it become not attached to the harness if being used as a PAS and still be in this position? How would the climber remove the sling from his harness with the sling like this? There appears to be no way to attach the sling to the anchor either, so where is the carabiner?

If this is the PAS for the partner, and they are out of frame, why are they not connected to the anchor by a carabiner/locker?

It would appear that the climber is set up for a rappel but there is no load on the system - possible that the climber had a good stance and removed the carabiner attaching the sling to the anchor because they are on rappel? Still not attached to the harness though. If it is the partner out of frame, they are not anchored.

What was the sling being used for that it would not still be attached by a carabiner to the anchor or to the harness? Or, what is the partner doing not anchored in?

I'm not seeing how this occurred without some type of fiddliness.

OP, can you please run us through, step-by-step, how this happened?

I assume I'm missing something that is outside the frame of the picture.

Rwwon ru · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 35

Here's my guess. He was hooked into the chains directly with his PAS, a sewn loop which was probably girth hitched into his harness. The "openness" of the loop probably ran between the two chains. When threading the rope through the chains, he probably went through the open loop of the PAS that was positioned between the two bottom links with out noticing. After he is done and ready to rappel, he removes his PAS, only to find that the rope is threaded through it. And being girth hitched into his harness he can't just undo it on the harness end. Without cutting the pas or retreading the rope he is stuck.

Yes?

Avalon'cha · · your girlfriend's bedroom · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 35

It was Lady Scarlet in the lavatory, with a candle stick? (hehe)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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