Toualame vs King Canyon this time of the year.

We are trying to decide how many days to spend in each place (7 days total). We climb trad and sport up to 10 and do enjoy multiple pitch routes with short approach. Not so keen on hot weather.

I can't compare the two for you (never been to King's) but this is indeed an ideal time for Tuolumne Meadows (note that you've spelled it incorrectly in your post, might make web searches hard!) which is full of totally great stuff to do. Tuolumne is a big place which takes some time to figure out in terms of geography, rock, and logistics, so if you took all 7 days there, I don't think you'd find them wasted. I've spent probably a month up there over the course of my life and I'd take a 2 or 3 week trip there in a heartbeat if my schedule allowed it.

Two caveats:

1) Tuolumne is well-known (notorious?) for having some pretty big spaces in between bolts on its beautiful slab routes...start a little below your normal solid lead grade until you've got that sussed out.

2) Getting a campsite is a bit of a challenge. Showing up by around 8am on a weekday morning is the way to do it.

Have fun!

What's the approach like to Murphy creek? Also what about van camping around there?

Climbing on the south side of Tuolumne today, I saw lots of smoke in the sky over northern Yosemite Park -- presumably from a fire that started in the morning and seemed to be still continuing into late afternoon.

Ken

If you are looking to get in as much climbing as possible in your seven days , there really is nothing to compare , Tuolumne Meadows is where you want to be . There is exponentially more climbing to be had in TM in terms of route development and climbing infrastructure ( as in guidebooks , approach trails , classic trade routes etc. ) than Kings .

If you include Sequoia NP / Kings in your comparison , then you have a few more routes to choose from , but still your concentration of routes and options will pale in comparison to TM . I would bet you can find a camp spot in the Meadows campground mid week , if not , there are many van camping options available outside the park , literally spots on the side of the road.

TM is really pleasant temperature wise right now , sporadic thunder showers are more of a threat than heat . Lastly Murphy Creek is about a 30 minute approach , very mellow and scenic .

Best of luck with your trip.