All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > Apron

St. Vitus' Dance

Name: St. Vitus' Dance
Rating: 3.4

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in The Apron

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Question of Balance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Attack of the Arc’gucci Clones T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Banana Peel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Boomstick Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Born Again T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Bottom Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Cha-Cha Crack, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Crystal Burst S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Dances with Pigs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Diedre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Form S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Granville Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Great Arch, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Ha7lh Skwalwen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Mickey Mouse S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Over The Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Pineapple Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rambles T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Read Between the Lines T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Sad Teens Razor S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Sickle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Slab Alley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	South Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Sparrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	St. Bernard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	St. Vitus' Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	That Dog Don't Hunt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Under her Apron T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Unfinished Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	White Lightning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

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Type:	Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches
FA:	Robin Barley, Gordie Smaill 1974
Page Views:	31,429 total · 145/month
Shared By:	Michael John Gray on Jul 22, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024 Details

For the most up-to-date information about closures in the Stawamus Chief Park, please refer to the following link: bcparks.ca/stawamus-chief-p…

The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.

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TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE

Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.

Posted April 17, 2023

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Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.

NORTH WALL CLOSURE

The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.

Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE

Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.

Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE

Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.

Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

Updated June 30, 2023

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

P1 From the base of the Apron climb up trees and cracks 5.7 to a treed ledge and belay off of a tree.

P2 Continue up a from the treed ledge through a discontinuous pitch off the left side. The clean splitter off the middle of the ledge is Ha7lh Skwalwen 5.10a which would get you to Baseline Ledge as well. Alternatively, you can climb St. Vitus' Direct 5.10a as a one pitch variation. See that entry for details.

P3 This next pitch is a long pitch starting with nice hand jams steepening at the top into a wide fist offwidth crack. Its tempting to place a big cam at the top although I find saving a #3 Camalot for the belay essential. This pitch ends on a small ledge below 3 prominent cracks.

P4 Climb up starting on the left crack to an obvious traverse, across the crack systems proing as you go. This is the crux pitch its exposed and the best on the route. (5.9)

P5 The final pitch from a ramp climb up to a 5.9 hand jam roof that I thought was 5.8 although stellar fun its very short. Then climb up easy slab for the rest of the rope and find a belay near the top of the Apron (could be a 6th pitch of easy slab).

Descent:

Scramble to the top of Broadway ledge, or climb Memorial Crack (5.9), then walk down, or rappel from the tree'd ledge before Memorial Ledge. Find the brown rap anchors on the climbers left side of the ledge between the two down slab trees.

R1: Large chain from bolts (15m)

R2: Chain anchor station part way down the wall on a ledge (35m)

R2.5: If have a 60, there is a single bolt with a locker to the right for the remaining 5m

R3: Large chain anchor off tree (28m)

R4: Bolted anchor (25m)

Location

This route starts on Baseline Ledge, hike from the parking lot staying left at the top of the hill and follow it out along the base and up. (I would recommend buying a guidebook Kevin Mclane recently Published an awesome extensive guide to Squamish)