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Routes in West Face
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Great Pumpkin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Heart of Stone T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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La Bella Luna T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Lucky Streaks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Magical Mystery Tour T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Mithrandir T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Mr. Burk T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Night Shift T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Plastic Exploding Inevitable T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A4 R |
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Retrospective T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Roseanne T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Twinkletoes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Unh-Huh T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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What Would Jeff Do T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 8 pitches |
| FA: | Mikey Schaefer, 8/04 |
| Page Views: | 4,542 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Mikey Schaefer on Jul 4, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Wow, this thing is hard. My big toes still hurt three days later and Im not sure if I ever want to get back up there. The line is a little contrived but none the less its still a good rock climb and youll have a fun time trying to move off those dime edges.
For the first three pitches the route follows the large black steak between the Regular Route and Heart of Stone. On pitch four traverse right along the dike for about twenty feet and head up the thin golden plates (these are your hand and foot holds). Pitch five is the crux, much similar to pitch four just harder. Three more pitches of easier climbing bring you to the large U-shaped ledge. From there you can rappel (two rope required) or climb two easy pitches to the top of the dome.
You wont get lost on this climb because its heavily bolted almost the whole way. The last two pitches wander a little but theres enough bolts to keep you on track, bring some 1/4 to 1 inch cams for these pitches.
For the first three pitches the route follows the large black steak between the Regular Route and Heart of Stone. On pitch four traverse right along the dike for about twenty feet and head up the thin golden plates (these are your hand and foot holds). Pitch five is the crux, much similar to pitch four just harder. Three more pitches of easier climbing bring you to the large U-shaped ledge. From there you can rappel (two rope required) or climb two easy pitches to the top of the dome.
You wont get lost on this climb because its heavily bolted almost the whole way. The last two pitches wander a little but theres enough bolts to keep you on track, bring some 1/4 to 1 inch cams for these pitches.
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