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Gregger Man
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Jul 25, 2014
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Broomfield, CO
· Joined Aug 2004
· Points: 1,769
I'm planning on upgrading some hardware this weekend on Rosy, Predator, and Wild Kingdom. Let me know if you are interested in helping out by - carrying tools
- videoing for an upcoming 'how to' seminar
- learning the techniques used to extract bolts rather than chop and patch
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Eliot Augusto
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Jul 25, 2014
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Lafayette, CO
· Joined Dec 2013
· Points: 60
If you are going to do this again another weekend I'll help.
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The Blueprint Part Dank
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Jul 25, 2014
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FEMA Region VIII
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 460
PM sent, that sounds awfully intriguing.
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Wally
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Jul 25, 2014
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Denver
· Joined Apr 2006
· Points: 0
Greg over the years has become very knowledgeable and adept at bolt replacement. Examples of his work are here on MP - he does a great job. Greg is also a darn good teacher, has an awesome disposition, and is one of the friendliest guys around. If you are interested in learning this skill and or helping out in Eldo, this is a great opportunity. If I weren't so hell bent on climbing I would be there helping you out, buddy. Thanks Greg for your continued support and time given to Eldo and the front range climbing community. Wally
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Gregger Man
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Jul 27, 2014
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Broomfield, CO
· Joined Aug 2004
· Points: 1,769
Matt and I replaced all three routes with a little help from the Blueprint Part Dank (Thanks!) 16 out of 18 bolts came out clean and easy. Two broke and required fresh holes. We replaced the nylon webbing on the anchor at the end of the P1 Rosy traverse while we were at it.
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The Blueprint Part Dank
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Jul 27, 2014
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FEMA Region VIII
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 460
I think the "help" I gave was more along the lines of only occasionally swinging into Matt and Greg. But those dudes are high speed low drag up there, and they're keeping all of us safe, without any real thanks and fanfare. Mad respect for those guys, and everyone who gets their hands dirty to make our days out climbing safer and less of a headache.
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Ed Wright
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Jul 27, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2006
· Points: 285
I feel very fortunate that I got to climb Rosy Crucifixion before it had any bolts.
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Eliot Augusto
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Jul 27, 2014
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Lafayette, CO
· Joined Dec 2013
· Points: 60
Ed Wright wrote:I feel very fortunate that I got to climb Rosy Crucifixion before it had any bolts. You can always not use the bolts.
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Alexander Blum
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Jul 28, 2014
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Livermore, CA
· Joined Mar 2009
· Points: 143
Eliot Augusto wrote: You can always not use the bolts. This response never, ever gets old. That's not the way it works, because that's not the way a typical human beings' mind works on a scary route. Anyway, that's cool you got to lead it without bolts Ed, I was glad to have them when I did it, but I would also welcome to challenge without. What was there before?
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Tombo
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Jul 28, 2014
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Boulder
· Joined Feb 2006
· Points: 410
There used to be a couple of pins as I recollect. I believe when they were replaced the first clip became much easier.
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Alexander Blum
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Jul 28, 2014
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Livermore, CA
· Joined Mar 2009
· Points: 143
Just looked it up in the guidebook. Rosy was first done as an aid route by Kor and co in the 60s, the whole thing was eventually freed by Ed Wright (Hi Ed!) in 1970. Apparently the pins were getting pretty bad (were they ever good?) by the 80s and were replaced with bolts.
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303scott
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Jul 28, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2008
· Points: 195
Getting us back on track here...Greg, Matt and Dank, thanks for putting in your personal time to upgrade existing hardware. I very much appreciate the service you are providing to the climbing community.
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Gregger Man
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Jul 28, 2014
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Broomfield, CO
· Joined Aug 2004
· Points: 1,769
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Eliot Augusto
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Jul 28, 2014
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Lafayette, CO
· Joined Dec 2013
· Points: 60
Gregger Man wrote:http://youtu.be/U6vNjeu9ytM Nice video. Thanks for all your work. I might feel a lot less scared whenever I try Rosy.
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Abram Herman
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Jul 28, 2014
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Grand Junction, CO
· Joined May 2009
· Points: 20
Thanks for your hard work, Greg.
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Steve Levin
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Jul 28, 2014
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 952
Great job as always Greg & Matt!
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