New Board Lasted Climbing Shoes! (Attn: Slab Climbers)

Just got back from Wilson's Eastside and they know that I'm always looking for really stiff shoes due to my huge feet and because I spend a lot of time in Pine Creek.

They are now the first US dealer for Butora climbing shoes, and this shoe looks perfect, which I told them to get me a 13.5

The hightops look great as well, but I guess there is a bit of a lag before they will be available.

butora.com/shoes/mantra

Tai says they have up to a size 11.5 in the Mantra right now. The rubber felt good in the store, we'll see how they perform on the rock. . .

Round or pointy toe box - wide or narrow fit - how asymmetric a last? What Rubber?

Chris Rice wrote:Round or pointy toe box - wide or narrow fit - how asymmetric a last? What Rubber?

They don't have my size available so I can't speak to fit.

From their website: This is the essential shoe for the trad climber who does toe jams on splitter cracks, heel-and-toe jams on off-widths, and smearing on friction slabs.

Designed with the trad climber in mind, this old school style shoe is super supportive and extremely durable. Built-in Poron memory foam padding protect your foot and allows for comfortable climbing. The asymmetrical last and stiff midsole provide all-day support, and with a German hydrovelour split leather, 100% organic hemp lining, and board-last construction, this shoe will be with you for all of your sends!

This neo-classic lace-up climbing shoe is made for traditionalists
Toe jamming won’t be so painful with built-in memory foam padding and extra side rubber patches

Super sticky, 100% butyl Butora F5 rubber sole

Will do, I may wait to see what Tai and Darrell Hensel think of them first!

Seems like the stiff, board-lasted shoe would not be as good for slab climbing compared to a softer shoe.

Not true Frank. Check out Beth Rodden climbing V8 slab in her TC Pros.

vimeo.com/32117058

Locker, you mean the old green aces, right? I've heard the new aces blow.

FrankPS wrote:Seems like the stiff, board-lasted shoe would not be as good for slab climbing compared to a softer shoe.

For me, personally, I think this is true. I feel much better slab climbing in as soft a shoe as possible in order to get more rubber on the slab. Unless there are little edges on the slab, then I like having some stiffness. But for pure slab (Stone Moutain, NC!!!) I want a soft shoe. YMMV.

I think micro-edging and Slab climbing may be lumped together, but probably shouldn't. The really hard "slab" climbs around here do have small edges to stand on, they are just really hard to see.

one thing that i find wanting personally with off-brand shoes is the quality of the climbing rubber

now everyone has their own rubber preferences but in general i prefer the edge/onyx personally for warmer granite trad, with the grip/c4 for colder temps or sport climbs

weve been pairs of saltic shoes which have their own brand of rubber, and everyone who is using em says that the rubber simply isnt as good as the 5.10/vibram on granite trad climbs/slab ... on sport it may not matter as much

mammut for example puts more "durable" rubber on some of their shoes at the expense of friction

i do have to say that the rubber on my climbX shoes isnt bad at all ... being close to vibram grip/C4 in terms of "stickiness"

;)

If the shoes are a good fit then hopefully these shoes can take a few more resoles than "modern" shoes. I had a friend resole his board lasted shoes 5 times!

My Kaukulators were resoled maybe 6 or 7 times before the leather upper fell apart. Only pair of shoes I ever owned that actually never hurt my feet on all day climbs that still climbed well. Wish I could buy them still.

Locker: you must not have very stinky feet!

You should call your business the:
T ahquitz
H appy
C obbler

I have had the mantra for a little while now and am definitely psyched on their performance on thin edging, slabs, cracks, etc. I have taken them out in Tahquitz and Yosemite. The rubber is definitely sticky, no problems smearing, etc. but it is on the softer side, so in warm weather it slips and peels a bit. I tend to prefer harder rubbers and am looking forward to getting them resoled with onyxx. They are well built, and have been quite durable so far, and are comfortable. Apart from the rubber being a little soft for my taste, they are one of my favorite shoes yet.

We need a demo out in Bishop!