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Jive-Ass Anchors, great website

Original Post
Avi Katz · · Seattle, WA · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 260

I thought everyone on this site would enjoy jive-assanchors.com/

Hope to never find any of my anchors on there!

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

I find it most interesting that folks would rather take a pic and post it online to make themselves feel better

Than go an have a POLITE conversation with the folks setting up those anchors in order to understand why and perhaps correct em

After all if those anchors are really "jive ass" dangerous ... And you arent talking to the folks about it

But rather snapping photos for you site

What does that make you?

;)

folks these days

ChefMattThaner · · Lakewood, co · Joined May 2013 · Points: 246

While I agree there are a few threads/posts on here simply meant to degrade those constructing dangerous/bad anchors. This does not appear to be Jive-assanchors.coms' agenda.

I just visited Jive-ass anchors website for the first time and appreciated the manor in which they go about showing these pictures. They specifically do not allow any pictures of people or names to be published along with anchor photos. They do not intend to degrade anyone but simply a spot to enjoy a few laughs and even educate a little for the newer climbers that may not understand why said anchor is so terrible.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
ChefMattThaner wrote:While I agree there are a few threads/posts on here simply meant to degrade those constructing dangerous/bad anchors. This does not appear to be Jive-assanchors.coms' agenda. I just visited Jive-ass anchors website for the first time and appreciated the manor in which they go about showing these pictures. They specifically do not allow any pictures of people or names to be published along with anchor photos. They do not intend to degrade anyone but simply a spot to enjoy a few laughs and even educate a little for the newer climbers that may not understand why said anchor is so terrible.
http://jive-assanchors.com/2013/05/21/mystery-knot/

the jive assed anchor folks could simply have asked whoever set it up what knot it was

read the comments ...

;)
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
SinRopa wrote:Maybe if he'd seen that ridiculous setup mocked online, he wouldn't have done it...
no hell still ignore you because unlike the REAL "experts" he doesnt come on MP =P

theres plenty of "unsafe" folks out there ... short of your physically restraining them, you arent going to be able to do anything if a polite conversation doesnt work

the vast majority of these TR anchor "shaming" post are folks running around da intrawebz taking photos and posting them online without talking to whoever set it up first

it makes you feel good but doesnt solve the "dangerous" issue at hand

if you wanted to you could simply make your own "unsafe' anchors and take photos of those as examples without "shaming" folks

but that wouldnt be as much fun would it now

;)
ChefMattThaner · · Lakewood, co · Joined May 2013 · Points: 246

yeah that one doesn't even seem to really fit their theme. Not really all that Jive-ass after all. But I am pretty sure it is the websites policy not to ask who set up any of the anchors in order to keep them anonymous. Also I am guessing if someone submitted this picture they assumed incorrectly that it was a bad knot and were not the ones that set up this anchor originally.

I am guessing the people at Jive-ass knew what this knot was(maybe I am giving them more credit than is due) but possibly needed some content for the day and thought a "guess the knot" game would be a decent attempt at adding content and generating site involvement/comments.

ChefMattThaner · · Lakewood, co · Joined May 2013 · Points: 246
bearbreeder wrote: the vast majority of these TR anchor "shaming" post are folks running around da intrawebz taking photos and posting them online without talking to whoever set it up first it makes you feel good but doesnt solve the "dangerous" issue at hand if you wanted to you could simply make your own "unsafe' anchors and take photos of those as examples without "shaming" folks but that wouldnt be as much fun would it now ;)
From the few minutes I spent on the site it seems like a lot of the anchors are left in places where the person who set it up may have done so weeks/months/years beforehand. The most recent one is a bail anchor on Longs north chimmney, I highly doubt the person that took the photo saw the person/people that contributed to this rats nest.

I agree with your sentiment though, simply shaming people for their anchor ignorance is more than likely not going to save any lives. However, as climbers I think there is nothing wrong with getting a little entertainment out of some of the crazy things we encounter in this crazy sport. There is a lot of doom and gloom surrounding the very serious issue of safety and climbing, why not, especially for more experienced climbers, let us laugh at each other a little bit. especially when done anonymously through sites like Jive-assanchors.
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
ChefMattThaner wrote:yeah that one doesn't even seem to really fit their theme. Not really all that Jive-ass after all. But I am pretty sure it is the websites policy not to ask who set up any of the anchors in order to keep them anonymous. Also I am guessing if someone submitted this picture they assumed incorrectly that it was a bad knot and were not the ones that set up this anchor originally. I am guessing the people at Jive-ass knew what this knot was(maybe I am giving them more credit than is due) but possibly needed some content for the day and thought a "guess the knot" game would be a decent attempt at adding content and generating site involvement/comments.
all they need is a simple rule ....

anyone who submits a photo and wants it posted needs to have a polite conversation first with whoever set up the anchor to get their POV

its basic "reporting" 101

if it REALLY is dangerous as this anchor post claims .... then TALK to that person before they die !!!

jive-assanchors.com/2013/06…

they go off and nitpich anchors that are "bomber" but "overengineered" ... well its not how i would do it but if it aint "unsafe" im not going to shout out about it on da intrawebs and make fun of it

jive-assanchors.com/2013/08…

;)
ChefMattThaner · · Lakewood, co · Joined May 2013 · Points: 246
bearbreeder wrote: all they need is a simple rule .... anyone who submits a photo and wants it posted needs to have a polite conversation first with whoever set up the anchor to get their POV its basic "reporting" 101 if it REALLY is dangerous as this anchor post claims .... then TALK to that person before they die !!! )
The last "jive-ass anchor" I came upon was on an obscure crag on independence pass where we saw zero other climbers in 3 days. How am I supposed to educate anyone on their dubious ways? One of those more recent ones on their website is on a not so classic multi pitch alpine route in Washington. It is a faux leather belt with the buckle acting as a tricam and the belt as the sling. This not only seems dangerous, but downright hilarious. I am going out on a limb here but I am just guessing that whomever took that picture did not find the person that placed that belt anchor. So because this person did not leave a note with their phone number and email address on their shitty anchor, you expect him to not show the rest of us this piece of magnificent macgyvering? Simply to assure we don't hurt the feelings of the person who constructed this anchor??
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
ChefMattThaner wrote: The last "jive-ass anchor" I came upon was on an obscure crag on independence pass where we saw zero other climbers in 3 days. How am I supposed to educate anyone on their dubious ways? One of those more recent ones on their website is on a not so classic multi pitch alpine route in Washington. It is a faux leather belt with the buckle acting as a tricam and the belt as the sling. This not only seems dangerous, but downright hilarious. I am going out on a limb here but I am just guessing that whomever took that picture did not find the person that placed that belt anchor. So because this person did not leave a note with their phone number and email address on their shitty anchor, you expect him to not show the rest of us this piece of magnificent macgyvering? Simply to assure we don't hurt the feelings of the person who constructed this anchor??
simple when there are folks around ... rather than running around snapping photos and posting it online

simply ASK those folks why they set it up that way

how dya know that the leather buckle aint a joke ... hell i would sacrifice a belt to make someone think i rapped off it =P

when there are folks around, if the anchor is "bad" enough for your to "jive ass" it ... ASK EM about it first

but theyll never implement that rule as it would detract from the entertainment "holier than thoult" value

;)
ChefMattThaner · · Lakewood, co · Joined May 2013 · Points: 246

I agree, if it is possible, one should always attempt to help out your fellow man/woman.

While in theory I like your idea of asking people to confront the person responsible for said jive-ass anchor. Unfortunately there is no way they could/would put a clause about having to talk to the builder of the anchor since as I have already mentioned, the vast majority of time, THE BUILDER OF SAID ANCHOR IS NOT AROUND ANYMORE. And possibly has not or will not be for years to come. So should I sit around at the base of every shitty anchor and wait for someone to arrive so I can show them what they did wrong?? Sounds real efficient. Or I could post it in a conspicuous place where everyone has access to and can see 24 hours a day??

I mean I guess that belt could totally be a joke, but then it still got the intended purpose of creating entertainment in the climbing anchor world.

You would seriously leave behind a belt on a route to make people think you rapped off it?? I mean I feel like I am not usually that concerned with what others think about my climbing technique/littering skills. I have always been of the mind to not leave behind trash on the mountain. Some people call bail anchors with slings trash, which they are. But that trash is more acceptable to me since it actually is being used to keep me alive. As opposed to a prank belt anchor left behind as a joke.

ChefMattThaner · · Lakewood, co · Joined May 2013 · Points: 246

I feel like your real issue is with threads like the Devils lake TR clusterfuck thread. Which is clearly anchor set ups being used by people currently at the cliff. That thread seems like it really could use some of your advice for educating fellow climbers on their less than stellar anchor building skills. These people could easily lower/rap down and be within feet of the person who built those anchors and could even give them a hands on lesson on how to build a better anchor.

While this website contains some of those instances as well, it seems to be more of anchors stumbled upon on Alpine routes or more obscure trad locations. Places where such jive ass anchors can exist long enough before the knowledgeable come along to fix/dismantle.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
ChefMattThaner wrote:I agree, if it is possible, one should always attempt to help out your fellow man/woman. While in theory I like your idea of asking people to confront the person responsible for said jive-ass anchor. Unfortunately there is no way they could/would put a clause about having to talk to the builder of the anchor since as I have already mentioned, the vast majority of time, THE BUILDER OF SAID ANCHOR IS NOT AROUND ANYMORE. And possibly has not or will not be for years to come. So should I sit around at the base of every shitty anchor and wait for someone to arrive so I can show them what they did wrong?? Sounds real efficient. Or I could post it in a conspicuous place where everyone has access to and can see 24 hours a day?? I mean I guess that belt could totally be a joke, but then it still got the intended purpose of creating entertainment in the climbing anchor world. You would seriously leave behind a belt on a route to make people think you rapped off it?? I mean I feel like I am not usually that concerned with what others think about my climbing technique/littering skills. I have always been of the mind to not leave behind trash on the mountain. Some people call bail anchors with slings trash, which they are. But that trash is more acceptable to me since it actually is being used to keep me alive. As opposed to a prank belt anchor left behind as a joke.
ive posted several "jive ass" post where the person was clearly still around ... not once did they state that the person who set it up was asked for their opinion or informed it was "unsafe"

this is even worse when you consider that in some of the cases folks where still climbing on the anchors ...

so basically there an anchor "dangerous" enough to be posted on "jive ass" ... but you still let them climb on it without a polite conversation

thats what happens when folks are more concerned about "entertainment" and "feeling superior" than actual "safety"

;)
ChefMattThaner · · Lakewood, co · Joined May 2013 · Points: 246

hahaha, I couldn't help but notice it seemed like Bear was not responding to any of my comments, but really just continuing on his rant.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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