How narrow an edge should a strong climber be able to hold on to?

First try hanging with both hands, then work up to hanging with just one.

This is without a doubt my favorite thread on MP ever.

Matt N wrote: Its additive, though. So 8 x 1/256 is like 1/32 - totally doable without even "sanding your tips" (that's more for bouldering).

Ha, yea, I think it's actually exponential so 1/256^8= 5.4210109e-20 inches. more fingers the less grip

Michael Colby wrote:This is without a doubt my favorite thread on MP ever.

glad to have given you such joy.

jamesldavis1 wrote: Ha, yea, I think it's actually exponential so 1/256^8= 5.4210109e-20 inches. more fingers the less grip

Exactly! That's why when the edge get micro small you're better off cranking with just one finger.

BTW the units are in metric not imperial.

jamesldavis1 wrote: glad to have given you such joy.

For the record, James, I did not laugh at your expense until the admin chimed in. lol

Norse Force wrote: For the record, James, I did not laugh at your expense until the admin chimed in. lol

dont mind at all. it was pretty apparent everyone was f'ing around but i thought maybe something was getting lost in translation and didnt want to call bs when they were talking about something legit, just definitely not hanging from 1/256 of an inch! pretty funny

This thread has given me so much joy over the past two days....

The internet really is a glorious thing sometimes.

ChefMattThaner wrote:This thread has given me so much joy over the past two days.... The internet really is a glorious thing sometimes.

I'll second that. Excellent work in here, guys.

youtube.com/watch?v=YC7Nb_6…

at around 9:00, you will have your answer

Ryan Palo wrote: one arms on the smallest edge of the Tranny board.

What is a Tranny board? (eager to hear the wrong answers, as well as the right one!)

Well played everyone!

BTW, you can buy gloves from BD that have holds built in! Brings a polished stone face into the 5.6 range. ;)

Optimistic wrote: What is a Tranny board? (eager to hear the wrong answers, as well as the right one!)

Transgression board.

RyanJohnson wrote: Transgression board.

That was what I'd thought...

I posted a question about that and its little brother Progression about a week ago...are you a fan?

Optimistic wrote: That was what I'd thought... I posted a question about that and its little brother Progression about a week ago...are you a fan?

I haven't tried the board but generally like the concept. I use one of the small metolius campus rungs and then use various shims to make the hold surface smaller.

Don't feel bad.

The nature of online forums, with the history of trolling and difficulty in picking up on sarcasm/etc through the written medium, makes it a little tough for the community to tell if a thread is:

A) A troll

B) A sincere post written by someone that has no f*cking clue

C) A combination of the two

ROFLMAO!!! I must admire the positive attitude that James put forth... Had he gotten all booty hurt and angry, it just wouldn't been such a good read. You've been a great sport, thanks for the great thread!

Michael Colby wrote:This is without a doubt my favorite thread on MP ever.

'Hold on to', might not be the concern. The smaller the hold gets, you dont' plan on hanging around 'holding' on to it. Try out small stuff and see what you can make forward progress on,,,advance a move or series through small edges, smears, whatever it may be. Sequence and finesse will be the real key to moving past small holds and up to a secure jug for a moments rest.

jamesldavis1 wrote: Forgive me if I'm still a bit confused, but we are talking about holding your entire bodyweight from 1/256 of an inch? That doesn't even make sense.

aaaand this made my night

jamesldavis1 wrote: Holy crap, those are insanely small edges. WOW. This UIAA Union performance test, what is it called? Or where do I find out about it? Not that I want to be certified now.

If you have to ask, it's not for you. One must already be in the know to get certified.