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Poll: What shoe are you wearing on multipitch routes?

Sean S. · · Thornton, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 10

Definitely TC Pros. Such a good shoe I haven't put my Testarossas on in about 2 months

Hiro Protagonist · · Colorado · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 290

TC Pros one-half size bigger than my Katanas. Now if I could only order 1/4 size bigger for my right foot...

Kevin Neville · · Oconomowoc, WI · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 15

I was in Mythos for the last couple of years. They perform well when they're new and aggressively sized; but once they stretch out and the edge gets rounded off, they get sloppy. So I'm trying out a couple of new things. I've had TCPros for a couple of weeks, and like them so far, but it's still early days. Very different feel from the Mythos, so much stiffer. And I've picked up a pair of Anasazi Green to try out, but no data yet.

Sizing, I'm a 43.5 in several lines; 44 Anasazi; 43 TCPro. The first Mythos I got were 43, way too large; then 42.5, better but still too large once they stretched; then 42, and even these have gotten sloppy.

frankstoneline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 30
NickMartel · · Tucson, Arizona · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 1,332

I wear my lace up 5.10 Spire's any time I will be in them for a long time, or if I am doing a route that requires leaving your packs at the top, rapping or hiking down, and then climbing out as I can also walk/hike it them reasonably well. One more plus is I can tighten the laces if I need better performance. However, I have a relatively wide foot and a slight Morton's Toe (where my 2ed toe is longer than my big toe).

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

Mythos 90% of the time. I still have my 5.10 spires too for easy stuff and I have a pair of Evolv's that have become an all day after getting a resole. The mythos I never have to take off and the evolv's only sometimes. If it's a "harder" route I use my muria's just take them off at the belay.

haha nothing like a nice resole to make a shoe an all day tradder while still keeping them somewhat technical.

Mark Lewis · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 260

Scarpa Force X, very comfortable! Seems to perform well until around 5.11 or so.

EQueezy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0

mythos.

for anything thats really demanding precision edging, muira (a comfy size muira)

John Douglass · · Seattle, WA · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 60

tc pros

knowbuddy Buddy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 225

astroman for easy towers
tc pros for everything else

Ernest W · · Asheville, NC · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 25

Mythos - can wear them all day and lace them up as tight or loose as I need to. As someone said, not "high performance" but great for moderate multi-pitch trad.

Tom Sherman · · Austin, TX · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 433
Bill Kirby wrote: TC Pros. The TCs make my Achilles tendon swell.. painful. Just on slabby stuff.
Anyone having the same issue with the TC Pro's? Kirby, did they end up stretching/ fitting better?

Just bought a pair of TC's. I fit them in the store 'comfort' but filling the shoe. Next size up I could wiggle my toes/ crunch the end of the rand back onto my toe/ etc... Tried to get on Whitehorse with them (aka slab-fest) and my arches and achilles area (above heel) were killing me. Wanted a technical shoe I could go all day in....

Is this just the effect of buying a new shoe and getting on a multi-slab? Did I size wrong? Do the TC's stretch? Is above heel pain common in TC? Maybe they're just not the right shoe for the shape of my foot? Anyone in the know want to offer something up?
Jim Fox · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 50

5.10 Anasazi Guides

frankstoneline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 30

Evolv Geshidos lately.

Don Ferris III · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 186

Give the TCs time. I had the same problem with the back of my heel at first but eventually they wear in nicely.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Tom Sherman wrote: Anyone having the same issue with the TC Pro's? Kirby, did they end up stretching/ fitting better? Just bought a pair of TC's. I fit them in the store 'comfort' but filling the shoe. Next size up I could wiggle my toes/ crunch the end of the rand back onto my toe/ etc... Tried to get on Whitehorse with them (aka slab-fest) and my arches and achilles area (above heel) were killing me. Wanted a technical shoe I could go all day in.... Is this just the effect of buying a new shoe and getting on a multi-slab? Did I size wrong? Do the TC's stretch? Is above heel pain common in TC? Maybe they're just not the right shoe for the shape of my foot? Anyone in the know want to offer something up?
My TCs stretched about a full size and fit perfect for all day multipitch. My runners are a 45.5, boots are 45 and my TCs are 43.5. My shoes have been resoled and I still have this problem sometimes. I've talked to others that had this but we are the minority.
Caz Drach · · C'Wood, UT · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 310

5.10 ARROWHEAD...great sensation...easy on easy off

-Z

J. Serpico · · Saratoga County, NY · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 140

Mythos for about 15 years. Some say you can't climb hard in them, which is a relative term anyway. Suffice it to say, I don't climb hard. But I do know people lead into 5.11 trad with them.

For harder single pitch, I have a slightly smaller mythos. For slabs, either the mythos (larger) or a fairly roomy 5.10 spire I picked up between mythos resoles. Don't love the 5.10s, but they work for easy slabs and cooler weather where I wear thin socks.

If the newer mythos is made the same, they should last about 4 resoles. I'm on 3 for my larger pair, and expect another resole out of them.

J. Serpico · · Saratoga County, NY · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 140
Tom Sherman wrote: Wanted a technical shoe I could go all day in.... Is this just the effect of buying a new shoe and getting on a multi-slab? Did I size wrong?
No experience with that shoe, but for slabs, definitely go with a larger fit. Worst case, add some some thin socks if they stretch a little too much. Slabs make poorly fitting shoes really show how poor they fit.

I suppose if the TCs are otherwise good, you might just pick up a cheap pair of shoes for slabs and comfort trad. There probably is no truly perfect fit or shoe for all types of climbing.
Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
J. Serpico wrote:Mythos for about 15 years. Some say you can't climb hard in them, which is a relative term anyway. Suffice it to say, I don't climb hard. But I do know people lead into 5.11 trad with them. For harder single pitch, I have a slightly smaller mythos. For slabs, either the mythos (larger) or a fairly roomy 5.10 spire I picked up between mythos resoles. Don't love the 5.10s, but they work for easy slabs and cooler weather where I wear thin socks. If the newer mythos is made the same, they should last about 4 resoles. I'm on 3 for my larger pair, and expect another resole out of them.
Love the Mythos!! I got a smokin deal on here for a new pair. Those are so comfy due to my need for a symmetrical rand.The only difference I notice the TCs edge better than the Mythos.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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