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California Five-Eleven A
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.7 from 23
votes
Routes in California Ridge
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Access Denied T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ayatollah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Band Aids On Road Rash T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cal Roof TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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California Five-Eleven A S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Case Dismissed T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Guilty As Charged S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mullah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | Dimitri Barton and David Caunt, 1991 |
| Page Views: | 4,042 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Steve R. on Mar 26, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
At the left end of California Ridge lies what is called California Five-Eleven A. Feels harder than the b/c rating that it's given in the guidebook...
Two bolts under the roof and some burly moves lead to 15' of face climbing. 3 bolt anchor.
Supposedly can be top-roped in a variation to the left though due to the potential swing it is not the best.
Two bolts under the roof and some burly moves lead to 15' of face climbing. 3 bolt anchor.
Supposedly can be top-roped in a variation to the left though due to the potential swing it is not the best.
Location
Located at the left end of California Ridge in the middle of a roof maybe 8' off the deck and 3' deep or so. Two bolts nearly horizontal with each other mark the start a few feet left of the inside corner (Access Denied)
Protection
5 draws. More arms than I've got. Quite difficult to clip the second clip. Bring something to extend the clip just above the lip otherwise the gate will rub right on it.
Also there are no rap rings at the top of this climb but you can walk around the top to clean the anchor. Lastly you might want to tie yourself to something as the belayer as to not get sucked off the cliff.
Also there are no rap rings at the top of this climb but you can walk around the top to clean the anchor. Lastly you might want to tie yourself to something as the belayer as to not get sucked off the cliff.
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