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Ultralight Ice Axe: Am I going to die?

Original Post
Kai Larson · · Sandy, UT · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 436

Just bought a 4.5 ounce titanium and carbon fiber ice axe.

Not UIAA approved or tested.

suluk46.com/products%20%20-…

youtube.com/watch?v=L6dZlZf…

Going to the Bugaboos at the end of August, and I figured that this might be just what I need for getting to the various climbs. Seems like it would get me up and down the Bug-Snowpatch col, and around the glaciers. Looks and feels adequate for self arrest and stomping up easy glacier terrain in combination with my aluminum crampons.

What do you think? Am I gonna die?

Taylor-B. · · Valdez, AK · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,186

I'm a big fan of using my 70cm BD Raven as a pry bar for trundling huge rocks as a snow stability test and to ward off those pesky Canadian thug-bears;)

How does the carbon fiber shaft compare to the BD Cobras as far as durability? Watch out for nics and dings that can give you splinters. The Suluk looks nice and light, let us know how it works for you. Also, check the air quality in BC, for the North is on fire and very smokey.

Kristoffer Schmarr · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 838

Yes.

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

Surprisingly, it does not work against common welsh green dragons.

I did not know that.

although, you'll probably live longer than video dude

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711

Bad idea jeans. That's really just a hill walking stick.

For the money, get a Raven, Venom, Grivel Airtech...etc. If you really need an ice ax for glacier travel...then get one that's up to the task.

ChefMattThaner · · Lakewood, co · Joined May 2013 · Points: 246

"The TiCa Ice Tool is not a replacement for a UIAA-certified ice axe on technical terrain and should not be used where life or safety is at risk."

Straight from the link you provided.

Goran Lynch · · Alpine Meadows, CA · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 6

CAMP Corsa Nanotech is the jam. I've heard speculation that the rivets(?) holding its pick together could be a failure point, but I've never heard of a failure of any kind in the field. And it weighs substantially less (3oz+) than any other axe with a steel pick.

Admittedly, its adze is pretty wimpy, but I can't think of any other downsides.

Dave Stimson · · Pincher Creek · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 203

I like Mark Twight's ideas on "how light is too light?" If you have to ask, it probably is...

But as long as the head stays on in a self arrest...

Stagg54 Taggart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 10
Kai Larson wrote:Going to the Bugaboos at the end of August, and I figured that this might be just what I need for getting to the various climbs. Seems like it would get me up and down the Bug-Snowpatch col, and around the glaciers. Looks and feels adequate for self arrest and stomping up easy glacier terrain in combination with my aluminum crampons. What do you think? Am I gonna die?
I've seen people go up and down that col with much less and they survived.

Then again I've seen people run out into traffic without looking and survive.

Surviving doesn't necessarily make it a good idea...
Kai Larson · · Sandy, UT · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 436

I've got a full strength Ushba titanium axe that only weighs 12 ounces.

Guess I should probably take that to the Bugaboos instead of trying to save a little less than 1/2 a pound with the Tica axe.

I do think that the Tica axe would be fine for self arrest, and mellow climbing. Don't think it would work very well if I had to use it to climb out of a crevasse, however. Definitely wouldn't trust it for boot/axe belays, anchors or other similar ice axe duties It's light enough that chopping steps would probably take a while.

So, the verdict is probably that it's useful for generic snow, but not so useful for glaciers.

For anyone familiar with Lone Peak Cirque in Utah, it was the snow slope below the main summit wall that prompted the purchase of the Tica axe. (Getting across the snow slope in the early morning was way sketchier than any of the actual climbing.)

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

I would be careful with carbon fiber life-support products that are not massed produced on a huge scale from a manufacturer familiar with carbon fiber. As someone experienced with carbon fiber bikes, I can say the manufacturing process is pretty labor intensive, and somewhat complicated. An inexperienced laborer can really mess up the product, compromising its safety. Even carbon fiber bikes, which are mass-produced in the tens of thousands, have been known to have defective carbon parts in some instances.

Carbon fiber is really cool where extreme weight savings is really required, but know it is prone to manufacturing defects from inexperienced manufacturers, and contrary to popular belief, carbon fiber is in fact not that strong. It is somewhat delicate actually.

ChefMattThaner · · Lakewood, co · Joined May 2013 · Points: 246
lh3.googleusercontent.com/-…

Maybe you can pick one of these bad boys up.
jaredj · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 165

Horses for courses.

If you're using this for situations where you'd use a single axe and not roped up (e.g. self belay on snow slope too steep to negotiate with just a pole, arrest in case you start sliding, glissade brake), you're probably gonna be fine.

The rating thing matters way more IMO for situations where you're using the axe in the context of being roped up and therefore are relying on it in for more formal anchor duty (e.g. boot axe belay, part of an anchor system in a crevasse fall).

Rob Cotter · · Silverthorne, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 240

Looks perfect for rick climb approaching...

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460
Better Idea

I think you'll be fine for the cols you'll encounter in the Bugs. However you'd have been better served with one of the CAMP Corsa axes.
Wyatt H · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 6

How about a self arrest ski pole?

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460
Wyatt H wrote:How about a self arrest ski pole?
As for the functionality, it would be a hell of a lot better for the Bugs, but it's not UiAA certified either*, so if this is a "yer gonna die" kind of question, it wouldn't do any better.

  • This statement is in regards to the Black Diamond Whippet, which by my estimation is the most popular self arrest ski pole on the market. Maybe there is such a ski pole that is UIAA certified. But I couldn't find one.
Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

How bout my spidey web slingers?

MP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 2

should be fine for the bugaboos, you don't need an iceaxe for the 99% of climbs most people do there...

Kai Larson · · Sandy, UT · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 436

Back from the Bugs. I didn't die.

The ultralight ice axe turned out to be perfect for the conditions we encountered.

Had to cross some moderate angled glacier terrain that varied between snow and alpine ice.

Axe was fine for balance, and I chopped a few steps with it.

Also good for climbing out of a bergshrund at the rappels off of Snowpatch.

Practiced a bit of self arrest with it, and it was good.

Wouldn't want to climb steep ice with it, and it probably wouldn't have served as a T-Slot anchor, but for mellow glacier and snow travel, it was fine.

DannyUncanny · · Vancouver · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 100
20 kN wrote:I would be careful with carbon fiber life-support products that are not massed produced on a huge scale from a manufacturer familiar with carbon fiber. As someone experienced with carbon fiber bikes, I can say the manufacturing process is pretty labor intensive, and somewhat complicated. An inexperienced laborer can really mess up the product, compromising its safety. Even carbon fiber bikes, which are mass-produced in the tens of thousands, have been known to have defective carbon parts in some instances. Carbon fiber is really cool where extreme weight savings is really required, but know it is prone to manufacturing defects from inexperienced manufacturers, and contrary to popular belief, carbon fiber is in fact not that strong. It is somewhat delicate actually.
Judging by the fact that it is just a round tube, I doubt they do their own layup. Probably they just by premade lengths in bulk from a carbon fibre tube supplier and bond the head and spike to it.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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