Backpacks

Mathias wrote:The 38L I currently have is set up for hiking. There's a bunch of stuff in it that I just don't need for a trip to the crag. I like to be over prepared when hiking so it's pretty stuffed and I'm not a big fan of repacking every time I go out. So there's nothing wrong with it, it's just occupied.

Oh man I wish I had that luxury. As an apartment dweller my 6 packs are stored like matryoshka dolls from my 80L down to the 18L. Pain in the butt pulling them apart every time I go out but whatcha gonna do?

For hauling stuff to the crag and not wearing it while climbing, just approach the whole issue like you would shopping for a backpacking bag. Look for something that is comfortable, transfers some weight to your hips (if it's big enough to have a waistbelt), etc. Maybe something with an outside stash pocket that you (or your partner) can use to quickly access your guidebook / topos, etc.

There's no need for a climbing - specific pack (or a pack made by a climbing company) for such things. In fact, these typically trade off comfort aspects like weight transfer in favor of a more flexible structure that is preferable when you're actually climbing with the thing on your back. I have and love packs from Cilogear and Cold Cold World like this, and they kick ass at what they're designed for. They're not my top choice for just goin' to the crags though.

If you want a single pack, shoot for something 40-45L; such a pack could be pressed into service as an overnight backpacking bag as well.

My winter ice pack is 40L.
My summer trad pack is 30L.

For each season, both are fully packed with the rope tucked under the lid. Single and Multi-Pitch climbing, with food/drinks and whatever else I need. I couldn't imagine needing a bigger pack unless I was spending the night.

70L is HUGE.

EDIT -

I saw the Mammut Trion was mentioned and that is my winter ice pack. That pack is awesome. I beat the everloving shit out of this pack and carry my crampons, ice axes, screws and other assorted crap, dropping down rocky slopes and dragging it through overgrown branches. This thing just won't die.

You can drop 100+ bucks on a separate pack of the same size because you don't want to repack the one you own? I am jealous.

I bought a Deuter Guide 35 after the first day I went climbing. I still use it unless I need my BD Mission 50. You can get away with any daypack until you have your own rack and rope. Your partner might ask you to carry the rope. I usually ask someome to carry my water. Otherwise you won't be carrying much ( water, food, helmet, shoes, harness, belay device, some biners and a prussik) until you buy some gear. I would use what you got til you need a climbing pack.

FYI, I carried a 50 liter pack most of last winter. I had the typical ice rack, water, food, rope and tools. It was a cold f-ing winter so i also brought a big thermos, puffy pants and micro puffy jacket. I understand the whole light is right thing but if we're under an hour from the truck I'm staying comfortable.

70 liters is all wrong. Get the mountain hardwear 105 bmg. Throw a boom box and 12 pack in there, along with your favorite midget dwarf porn star.

Alexander Blum wrote:You can drop 100+ bucks on a separate pack of the same size because you don't want to repack the one you own? I am jealous.

Well, yeah. It's not like it's nothing to me, but as everything wears out eventually, if I put less wear on one pack because I use it for one thing, it lasts longer and it saves me a lot of time. More of an initial investment, but no more costly overall as far as I can see. And whatever I buy, from work boots to a coffee table, I don't want to buy twice because I got something that doesn't work for me.

TravisSC wrote: Oh man I wish I had that luxury. As an apartment dweller my 6 packs are stored like matryoshka dolls from my 80L down to the 18L. Pain in the butt pulling them apart every time I go out but whatcha gonna do?

Travis, I've been there ..... ish. Keeping pretty much everything I own that's not in my car in one bedroom of an apartment. But as I've always had different bags for different activities, it never did me any good to unpack them. I could store the bags better, but then I had to store all the stuff that came out of them. I decided just to keep everything for that activity in the bag, then everything was consolidated. So now, even though I have a house and plenty of storage space, I keep equipment for certain activities in their bags.

I think I'm going to have to get down to Boulder or Denver and take a look at what's on offer. But I guess as I found that old hiking pack there's not such a big hurry after all.

This is it btw: store.berghaus.com/p/equipm…

I'm glad you're settling in the 40ish range. I have the Osprey Mutant (38L), I mostly like it. It tends to get good reviews and I've run into multiple people who have & like it. It's a climbing specific pack (as much as that means).

It has a strap to hold the rope down under the brain, as others suggested, since 38L can get pretty marginal, esp in winter. Has cords for two ice tools/axes and side slots (not pockets) for poles, pickets, trekking poles or whatever long things you want to lash onto the sides. My partner was tired the other day, the Mutant carried a double rack (plus #5 & 6) and a 70m rope under the brain. It probably doesn't transfer the load as well as a real frame pack, but it gets the job done pretty well!

My only gripe is that it doesn't have a real frame and the back doesn't hold it's shape - it doesn't stand upright well by itself when not fully loaded. This can be a DIY fix though if I ever wanted to change it though.

ANYWAYS - you have packs, consider using the ones you have and save $! Buy actual climbing gear instead! Then, use a checklist to make sure you that you reload the packs correctly when you switch activities...

Guess I'll keep typing...stop reading if you are already bored with my rambling...

I also have the Miura 50 (which was recently redesigned into the Miura 45). 50L has been wonderful when carrying a double rack around with enough food and water for a full day. But dang that pack is heavy by itself, it's a real slog on approaches. Also, it's too big if for some reason I chose to carry it up the rock (the Mutant is great for this though - if you need your approach pack to go up the rock with you, otherwise the Flash 18 is what I use too). WOW! I just looked, they cut the pack weight in half for the new version (Miura 45), thank god.

Good luck, buy lots of gear, just maybe not a pack. :p

Hiro, you've got some good points.

I can't tell you how much I hate repacking for different activities. I just can't stand it! But as I have found the spare pack I'd forgotten about, it'll keep my going for a while. Weight on approaches doesn't seem like a big deal to me, but maybe that's because I'm a big guy, do a physical job and like hiking (which I do with a heavy pack). I'm sure weight will be much more of an issue when I'm climbing though. I was originally seeking a pack to dump at the bottom of the crag and leave there, with the possibility of a much smaller pack (almost a large hydration bladder) for multi pitch, which I really don't need yet. Yes, I should probably focus on buying more climbing specific things like a rope, and protections, etc. But I'll still take everything I've read here and go see what's available.

About weight, fair enough, I'm not that heavy, so these 30-40lb packs up steep hillsides really wear me out.

You can get really fabulous deals on used packs by the way - it's a durable item, no need to buy new. Forum here and geartrade.com are great, maybe you'll find a useful pack at a good price.

Hiro,

Ive also got a mutant and have modded it by slipping an 8" or so wide piece of dry earase board between the folds of the so-called bivy pad osprey used for padding and removing the thin plastic piece that it came with. It made the pack WAY more comfortable with heavier loads. A friend and I just finished an overnight alpine trip and the mutant handled around 35lbs just fine.

For five bucks its almost like getting a second bag, and you can swap it back in about 30 seconds if your concerned with the extra half pound or so.

Edited to add:
really like the mutant, perfect size for fair weather overnights or long approaches.

Thanks Jake, I'm going to investigate doing that!

I got a used BD Demon duffel for cragging. It's 42L and fits my 9.2 Nano rope, trad rack, shoes, harness, helmet, water & lunch just perfect. It comes with a rope tarp too!

blackdiamondequipment.com/e…

What I like about it the most is the full zipper. I can get to everything I need really quickly. Also, since I only spent $35 on it, I don't worry about leaving it at the bottom of a climb in case some DB snags it.

The downsides of the duffel is that it's not meant for a long hike in. Anything over a couple miles you'd want a properly designed backpack. Also, you can't strap anything on top or the sides (but everything I need fits inside, etc.).

Mathias wrote: ...I think I'm going to have to get down to Boulder or Denver and take a look at what's on offer...

There's probably a better selection in the stores out there in CO but if you don't feel like driving (or just want to shop and test packs at 2AM) remember that moosejaw has free shipping AND FREE returns with a shoprunner membership (which is also free if you've got any Amex card). I can't tell you how many times I've used this to compare gear at home without feeling rushed in the shops. It would also let you see exactly how your stuff fits in various sizes and models.

I use my Deuter Guide Lite 32+ and love it. Fits a whole trad rack and all my other gear fine, and expands enough to haul the rope too.

I'll stop bothering y'all after this..

The Demon Duffel reminded me of what other advice I would give - get a pack with a proper hip belt! The Demon looks amazing for cragging (I've seen friends using it, amazingly simple!), but if you're climbing trad, your "rack" isn't 16 draws, you probably aren't cragging and your approach probably isn't a 10-15min almost-hiking-trail.

The hip belt is a giveaway w.r.t. how much the designers expected you to carry. Or how far. Some have no belt, others have 1-2" webbing (ouch!!!!). Others (like the Mutant) have a mostly unpadded, but wide belt which offers a nice sit on the hips. All the way up to a full wrap, fully padded hip belt.

Perhaps body type plays into this, as I'm skinny, all webbing does for me is cause immediate discomfort.