3 or 4 people on a technical team?

Im 16 and just starting to get into alpine climbing and mountaineering. I was just curious is it possible to set protection, whatever the terrain, and climb with a group of 3 or 4? Or is it more like rock climbing where 2 people should be on a team, one leading and one cleaning and visa versa
any input would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

It depends.

Fast and Light Alpine rock or ice climb? 2 people is likely quickest.

Long glacier slog? 3 people is going to be much safer, 4 even more so.

Like most things in climbing, the best team size depends entirely on the objective.

I know that for glacier travel 3 or 4 is more ideal but it possible to climb as a team of 3 or 4 on alpine routes aka more technical

With a group of 4 people I would split up in two rope groups of 2. It's faster and on alpine terrain faster = safer i.m.o.
With 3 it is possible to have one leading on double rope and 2 following. This involves more rope handling which makes it slower. I would prefer climbing with 2 groups of two and swapping leads.

We climbed the FitzRoy in Patagonia with three of us.
In blocks, ours were full day blocks.
Leader with smallest pack.
Follower with medium pack.
Jumar third with big pack.

Not much of more gear two vs three peeps.
Mostly extra food. Weight is spread out better on long approach.
If someone gets hurt, two peeps to get injured out.

Our route was just under 40 pitches long...
Hope that helps. Four seems much....

I've climbed several long rock routes with three. I've found that it doesn't slow your group down much if everyone is a competent climber. It's good for moral and helps if somebody gets hurt to have a third. Definitely use half ropes for teams of three and a group of four on rock may be too cramped at belays ( because three can be)

Sure you can climb technical routes with 3 people. It's not much slower or more of a hassle than 2 people. Steve House, Mark Twight, and Scott Backes did the Czech Direct as a team of 3 people in part b/c it would make them stronger than 2. One person gets a rest while the other two lead/belay. You can have the leader climb with a very light or no pack, etc.

Thanks for the input I greatly appreciate! Just to claify you have one person lead, one belay him and the third climber cloved into the anchor as well, just chilin. Also it wouldn't matter weather the belayer is on the end or in the middle would it?

Eli Grossenbacher wrote:Im 16 and just starting to get into alpine climbing and mountaineering. I was just curious is it possible to set protection, whatever the terrain, and climb with a group of 3 or 4? Or is it more like rock climbing where 2 people should be on a team, one leading and one cleaning and visa versa any input would be greatly appreciated Thanks

The answer really depends on a lot of things. IMO, if you're "just starting to get into alpine," don't take more than two people up a route if you're not all experienced with alpine climbing.

The route you're considering is a big consideration. Alpine climbing with more than two people adds some significant logistical prep and experience. Things can get hairy very quickly (weather, injuries, dehydration, etc).

But here's a test: climb a route of similar (or greater) difficulty and length at Lumpy Ridge. Then remember it's probably going to be a lot of more walking in/out and the actual climbing will feel more difficult at altitude.

Regardless, definitely do not take four people up an alpine route (assuming RMNP) in one group if you're not 100% sure everyone can climb it in good conditions. If you must take a group of four up an alpine route, I would use two teams of two and place climbers like this: strongest, most experienced climber in lead of first group; the least experienced climber following; the second most experienced leading the second group; and the most safety-conscience climber in the fourth spot.

Don't be afraid to bail if the weather is threatening. Don't be afraid to bail if it doesn't look like you'll finish the route in a timely manner (a lot of people discount the amount of time it can take to descend). And don't be afraid to bail if anyone is showing signs of fatigue, dehydration, and/or lack of experience/confidence. Most people that have climbed in the alpine will tell you that they learn more from bailing on a route than they did finishing a route. Don't be afraid to leave gear behind if necessary.

Good luck and be safe.

I regularly climb as a team of 3 using half ropes. It's only slightly slower than a team of 2 once you get things dialed in. Practice your belay transitions before you go into the mountains, it's easy to burn a bunch of time by getting your ropes twisted and tangled at the belay.

Marc thank you a ton thats the best answer i have gotten.... Is there any chance you would be willing to mentor me on an easy multi pitch sport route or an easy route for some basics? you seem very knowledgable. also thanks trevor for the tips