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Automatic Leg Spreader
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.1 from 19
votes
Routes in The Wasteland
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Automatic Leg Spreader S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Beast with Two Backs, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Beast, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Believe It S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Capuccino S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Community Service S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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El Chapo S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Espresso S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Guilt Parade S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Gun Shy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Java Creek S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Lady Luck S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Never Believe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Nostalgie S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Popular Demand S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ruckus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Slacker S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Slacker Direct S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Thieves S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Vision Thing S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Sport, 115 ft (35 m) |
| FA: | Dan Morta |
| Page Views: | 2,744 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Dan M on Nov 11, 2013 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Easy (5.10) climbing leads to a no-hands rest below the roofed dihedral. Technical stemming and a hidden crimp get you past the first roof and into the crux. Micro-holds and more stemming maneuvers get you to the second roof. Gather your wits for some heads-up climbing and a couple of good holds on the arete with a jug sidepull allows you to clip and pull over the third roof and onto the upper headwall slab. More rests on the upper slab headwall allow you time to contemplate the final crux at the last bolt. Sidepulls, pinches, a sloper, and an optional kneebar will deposit you on the final section of vertical terrain that's pumpier than it looks.
Location
It is on the trail halfway between the Wasteland and Nappy Dugout. This route climbs the obvious dihedral between the Wasteland and the Nappy Dugout.
Protection
17 bolts. Chains and steel carabiners have been installed at the anchors. A 70 meter rope is required to lower off this route. The protection for this route was generously provided by the Rifle Climbers' Coalition
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