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Petzl Djinn vs Spirit

Original Post
Browning Gentry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 15

Does anyone have strong opinions on the Spirit vs the Djinn? It seems the Djinn has all the features of the Spirit, with bigger biners and a thinner dogbone. Not sure why they are such different prices - any reason not to go with the Djinn? The weight isn't a huge deal for me.

I need to update my rack of draws as they're now 5+ years old. Any other brands I should look at? Always been a big fan of the spirits.

calvino · · Sedro Woolley · Joined May 2010 · Points: 425

The petzl spirit is the most perfect and refined carabiner i have ever clipped. The spirit dog bone is beefy and stiff enough for projecting and abuse. Don't get me wrong djinn is nice, but it is not as enjoyable to clip. I would buy the one that feels best, not based on cost.Both will last forever.

frankstoneline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 30

Petzl still hasn't figured out how to put a rope end wire carabiner on their draws, this I don't understand. In my opinion the live wire is the best off the shelf draw, but if you're willing to do a little legwork the hotwire or posiwire with replaced fatter doggones (for sports climbing) are a fine money saving alternative.

Dan Allard · · West Chester, PA · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 1,070
frankstoneline wrote:Petzl still hasn't figured out how to put a rope end wire carabiner on their draws.
http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/non-locking-carabiners-0/ange-finesse
Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,648
Dan Allard wrote: petzl.com/us/outdoor/non-lo…
Just because they have a wire gate biner doesn't mean that they've figured out how to put a wiregate rope end biner on a draw. The ange is by far the worst clipping rope side biner I have ever used, and that's even counting solid gate ovals.
frankstoneline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 30
Dan Allard wrote: petzl.com/us/outdoor/non-lo…
The Ange is designed to swiftly separate unknowing, innocent Gomers from large gobs of their hard earned cash (and it does a damn good job it seems...)

kennoyce wrote: Just because they have a wire gate biner doesn't mean that they've figured out how to put a wiregate rope end biner on a draw. The ange is by far the worst clipping rope side biner I have ever used, and that's even counting solid gate ovals.
Bingo.
teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

Petzl hasn't "figured it out" cuz wire gates suck.

I guess I'm getting to be old fashioned, but there is no finer carabiner than a Petzl Spirit. Straight for the bolt, bent for the rope.

They just feel right in your hand, when you clip the bolt, and when you sink the rope. Sublime.

Browning Gentry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 15

Yeah, not big on wiregate myself. I don't mind using them, but the "snap" feeling is so much nicer on a solid gate.

frankstoneline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 30
teece303 wrote:Petzl hasn't "figured it out" cuz wire gates suck. I guess I'm getting to be old fashioned, but there is no finer carabiner than a Petzl Spirit. Straight for the bolt, bent for the rope. They just feel right in your hand, when you clip the bolt, and when you sink the rope. Sublime.
Browning Gentry wrote:Yeah, not big on wiregate myself. I don't mind using them, but the "snap" feeling is so much nicer on a solid gate.
Hang onto yer boots boys (and girls), looks like we got ourselves a standoff.
Joan Lee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 140

I just got a set of Djins for my birthday! Awesome draw, nice and stiff. Just thick enough to grab if you have to cheat , hehe. I like the bigger biner a lot because my hands are pretty big and we are intending to use them on ice climbs as well so they will clip nicely with gloves on.

ChefMattThaner · · Lakewood, co · Joined May 2013 · Points: 246

I like wire gates for both ends, does that make me new school? Or am I just gonna die?

Joan Lee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 140

Wire gates are nice for trad, will not work for ice.

Bill Czajkowski · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 20

I've been wondering too. I have to say I'm disappointed by the thin dogbone on the Djinn. I like the size and lower cost, but the thin dogbone kind of sucks. I'm still not sold on the I-beam construction of the new biners.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
Browning Gentry wrote: I need to update my rack of draws as they're now 5+ years old. Any other brands I should look at? Always been a big fan of the spirits.
or you could just get new dogbones and replace your current ones if yr biners are still in good condition ....

as for the draws just buy whatever feels best clipping ...

any good draw will work ...

;)
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
Bill Czajkowski wrote: I'm still not sold on the I-beam construction of the new biners.
i suspect that for folks who take constant sport whippers, youll see biners develop sharp edges quickly

more so than on the previous generation of spirits and other full stock biners

in fact for popular sport climbs (and lowering biners) that folk put these draws on as "permadraws" i would be quite concerned about climbing and whipping/lowering off them

;)
RafalA · · Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 20
Joan Lee wrote:Wire gates are nice for trad, will not work for ice.
I think maybe you should go climb some ice with your frozen solid-gate biners...
Dave Stimson · · Pincher Creek · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 203
Joan Lee wrote:Wire gates are nice for trad, will not work for ice.
Weird... That's why they designed wire gates...
frankstoneline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 30
ChefMattThaner wrote:I like wire gates for both ends, does that make me new school? Or am I just gonna die?
Makes you a glutton for punishment when cleaning perhaps..
Joan Lee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 140
RafalA wrote: I think maybe you should go climb some ice with your frozen solid-gate biners...
I agree wire gate biners are supposed not to ice up as much as the solid gate. I have to see how these work. I can switch them up if needed. Thanx for pointing it out.
ChefMattThaner · · Lakewood, co · Joined May 2013 · Points: 246
frankstoneline wrote: Makes you a glutton for punishment when cleaning perhaps..
It's all about the hoodwires on the bolt end.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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