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> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Albion Basin
> Devil's Castle
Shadow of the Blade
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.2 from 76
votes
Routes in Devil's Castle
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Black Streak T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bush Bullshit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Des Teufels Bollwerk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Easy Snow PG13 |
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Devil Made Me Do It, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Devil's Lettuce S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dick Cheese Ball Cheney S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Evil Eye T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Friday the 13th T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Gothic Miller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gothic Pillar T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Hellevator Shaft T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Horns Of Satan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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North Face Chimney T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a M5 R |
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Political Prisioner S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Poon Limp or Eat Crust T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Portable Darkness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Shadow of the Blade T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Touch of Grey T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 750 ft (227 m), 7 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Brian Cabe and Brian Smoot , August 2007 |
| Page Views: | 8,614 total · 43/month |
| Shared By: | bsmoot on Aug 29, 2007 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation
Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
P1 - Ascend the compact face on good rock to a big ledge. (5.10c/d)
P2 - The next pitch is slightly overhanging for 90' until the angle kicks back. Look for ledges on the right...big holds. (5.10)
P3 - Climb strait up to a bolt (don't go right!) climb the steep slab traversing left to a short overhanging hand crack. Protect this and the crack above with cams. (5.9)
P4 - Short easy, scrambling leads to a belay next to a prominent dead tree...loose rubble on ledges. Be careful.
P5 - Move right a few feet. Bolt protected face leads 90' to a belay ledge. (5.7)
P6 - Diagonal up & left to a steep section...good finger pockets. A hand sized crack leads to a large ledge/ramp near the top. Belay at a single bolt higher on the ledge. (5.10b)
P7 - walk 35' left to a short steep wall. Ascend this, on great rock to an arête. Follow this to to the summit. (5.10)
Have fun and as usual, watch for loose stuff. Most belays are protected. As with any route on the Castle, stick to climbing on the bedrock and try to avoid pulling on blocks or flakes or fractured rock.
P2 - The next pitch is slightly overhanging for 90' until the angle kicks back. Look for ledges on the right...big holds. (5.10)
P3 - Climb strait up to a bolt (don't go right!) climb the steep slab traversing left to a short overhanging hand crack. Protect this and the crack above with cams. (5.9)
P4 - Short easy, scrambling leads to a belay next to a prominent dead tree...loose rubble on ledges. Be careful.
P5 - Move right a few feet. Bolt protected face leads 90' to a belay ledge. (5.7)
P6 - Diagonal up & left to a steep section...good finger pockets. A hand sized crack leads to a large ledge/ramp near the top. Belay at a single bolt higher on the ledge. (5.10b)
P7 - walk 35' left to a short steep wall. Ascend this, on great rock to an arête. Follow this to to the summit. (5.10)
Have fun and as usual, watch for loose stuff. Most belays are protected. As with any route on the Castle, stick to climbing on the bedrock and try to avoid pulling on blocks or flakes or fractured rock.
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