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looking for easy climbs with short approach in black hills.

Original Post
T.L. Kushner · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined May 2009 · Points: 5

i'm going to a family reunion in the black hills of SD next week. i have some experience in the area but was shown around by a former local so i really dont know the area well. i'd like to set up a top rope or two for some of my family to climb on and would like suggestions for something in the 5.5-5.7 range (or easier, if available) that doesn't have a super long approach. sub 5 minute would be best. does anyone know of a small crag that would fit this bill? ideally i would like one that isn't a super popular area because i wouldn't want to be mobbing an area and depriving other people of classic routes.

Wilson On The Drums · · Woodbury, MN · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 940

south seas at mt rushmore fits the bill, namely the toy boat formation. sub 5 minute approach with well maintained trails and stairs. approx 5 routes from 5.5 to 5.8 on that formation. don't worry about mobbing the area b/c although it is popular the locals will be elsewhere for the classics.
you could also try the veiny/north park area/formations. these are directly across the road from the outhouse/parking lot for wrinkled rock campground. the climbs there tend to be a little more vertical and not as smeary.

Mike Gibson · · Payson, AZ · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 0

If you are in the custer state park area, back side of the dam or practice rock near sylvan lake fits the requirements.

mountainproject.com/v/dam--…

Climbing in the needles eye area this time of year is not recommeneded. Too many tourists jamming up the area.

T.L. Kushner · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined May 2009 · Points: 5

thanks for all the fantastic advice everyone! i had forgotten about the big lake near the dam. is there any DWS in there?

Mike Gibson · · Payson, AZ · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 0
T.L. Kushner wrote:thanks for all the fantastic advice everyone! i had forgotten about the big lake near the dam. is there any DWS in there?
Water side or front side of dam has some routes (easy 5.6 or 5.7s I think) but the rock is low angle so a fall would mean getting cheese gratered before you hit the water.
Sumbit · · My house · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 0
mountainproject.com/v/moonl…

Moonlight Ridge is fun. There is a very small very cheap guidebook at a rock shop in Hill City for it as well.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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