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> Whipper Wall
Frankenslime
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British PG13
Avg: 1.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Whipper Wall
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Bad Brains S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Brain Bomb S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Frankenslime S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Ride the Lightning S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Toxic Narcotic S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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UnGoverenable Force S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Virus, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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You're Nicked, Who's Next? S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas 06' |
| Page Views: | 674 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Tyler Phillips on Jul 29, 2007 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation
Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This route dictated where the bolts went, not all of the rock sounded good when hit with a hammer, so you might not like where the bolts are. However I personally find them very usable. The start might have some green slime around it. Start in a steep left facing corner, climb up passing 1 bolt to a mantle. From here find that sweet jug, lean out and clip the bolt. The holds are hard to find and use but they are there. There was a fixed chain draw on bolt 3 to help with the hard clip. After clipping the 3rd there are a few ways to do it, straight up (which is hardest) or going out left and coming back in the "line" (exciting!). The route feels a lot longer than 4 bolts!
I personally wouldn't let any green horns belay me on this, attention is a must.
I personally wouldn't let any green horns belay me on this, attention is a must.
Photos
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