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Superlight approach/decent shoes for Alpine climbing

Original Post
Animal Chin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2008 · Points: 0

I'm in the mood to upgrade my old 5.10 approach shoes. For sport crags they are ok, but they are heavy and bulky. Anyone have recommendations for a lightweight shoe that is good for 4th class alpine ascents and descents. Sticky rubber would be welcome, but I"m more interested in something super lightweight that can be clipped to my harness or stuck in my small daypack for the climb. Most of the easy 5th class stuff I will rope up anyways.

I'm looking for a shoe, not sandals.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

I've never tried these, but they are super light:

outdoorgearlab.com/Approach…

Paul-B · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 115

I was going to suggest the Cruzers. Love them. Used them on several alpine climbs. Super light. If you're bringing rock shoes the easily clip to your harness without taking up much space. I once did a 10 mile round trip approach to an alpine climb in them, with a pretty heavy pack. That was a bit much for those shoes as I was craving a bit more support at the end, but anything less, I love them.

Don Ferris III · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 186

Check out Luna sandals. Vibram soles. Comfortable and super light. I throw them under my chalk bag and forget they are there. Plus they are handmade in Seattle. Also the straps are made of tubular nylon webbing. Pretty sure you could build an anchor with them.

lunasandals.com

Joe Prescott · · Berlin Germany · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 6

I like my Altra Superiors and they are super cheap these days (because a 1.5 version came out). I did the Upper Exum on the Grand in them car-to-car and they worked out well, even on the 5th class parts. I've done a bunch of longer approaches in Red Rock, NV and 4th class mountain routes in MT. I trail run in them too (up to 20 milers or so). They have removable rock guard insoles, super comfy with socks or sock-less, and pretty light, zero-drop but still with cushion.

Drawbacks would be not very sticky rubber, and the toe box is pretty wide, so they don't edge at all really. Being wider does make them comfy, and very stable. I find it nearly impossible to twist my ankle in them. Probably not quite as compact as the other shoes mentioned?

Joe

Alan Doak · · boulder, co · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 120

+1 for Cruzers

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70

I often use a very cheap, very, very light pair of running shoes if there isn't any rock climbing on approach. Some of these are so light they seem made of helium.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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