progression and transgression impressions?
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Hi: |
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I don't have a lot of direct experience, but a buddy (that climbs at similar level) bought the Transgression last winter & sold it before spring. He thought it was a gimmick & the texture was horribly rough. He ended up sanding down the smallest edge & it still wasn't that hard as a 2-hand 10 second deadhang hold. |
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reboot wrote:I don't have a lot of direct experience, but a buddy (that climbs at similar level) bought the Transgression last winter & sold it before spring. He thought it was a gimmick & the texture was horribly rough. He ended up sanding down the smallest edge & it still wasn't that hard as a 2-hand 10 second deadhang hold. Personally, I think the RPTC and the Beastmaker are the 2 best boards on the market, depending how much of a wood texture snob you are. Even if you buy them both they'd still end up cheaper.Thanks Reboot! Interesting... I don't know if you saw the review I posted in the original post, but it alludes to them having made some pretty major manufacturing changes...sounds like the initial version was kind of rushed to market and had some issues...'course, maybe your friend's experience was AFTER all the changes? Anyway, thanks again. |
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if a 10 second hang on the smallest edge is easy then the process is to add external resistance (weights). There are videos online that detail the various exercises for these boards. |
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You either believe in the Eva Lopez strategy or you don't. |
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Rui Ferreira wrote:if a 10 second hang on the smallest edge is easy then the process is to add external resistance (weights).One can only add so much weight before it ends up overloading the shoulder, elbow & whatever else. I've found working pairs of fingers really help recruit the less dominant fingers, in addition to stressing the finger tendons to withstand the load placed on 1/2 finger pockets. kenr wrote:You either believe in the Eva Lopez strategy or you don't.Or you tried the Eva Lopez strategy and found it not to work for you. If you have access to a system board w/ matching set of holds you probably have no need for a fingerboard, but otherwise there's more to climbing hard than being able to crimp the smallest edge w/ all 4 fingers, at least as far as hand/finger strength goes. |
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reboot wrote:there's more to climbing hard than being able to crimp the smallest edge w/ all 4 fingersThat seems like an obvious point. But I suspect part of the "belief" in the Eva Lopez approach is an obsession with hanging off small (positive non-sloping) edges - (Just like some climbers get obsessed with certain campus-board sequences). I remember some note on Eva Lopez blog about the exact width of the smallest edge some guy had hanged on for some number of seconds. Maybe around where she lives there are lots of popular problems/projects with cruxes of small positive edges? Myself I did go through a phase of my hang training where I worked on trying to hang off the smallest edge that I could for a single rep. After I succeeded on the smallest edge on my fingerboard, I created smaller (non-sloper) edges with wood, and adjusted them smaller with plastic shims. (I guess this was around the time I first read about the Eva Lopez boards.) And I was amazed at how small an edge I developed to be able to handle. Then I discovered there were lots of outdoor sequences I could not send, for which this capability made no difference. Then I decided that spending lots of training time hanging from 4 fingers on small edges was boring. And also that spending lots of time hanging from 3 or 2 or 1 fingers per hand was boring. But likely I'll get back into static hangs again sometime. Ken P.S. Funny a couple of times at my local gym a climber asked me to show them how to get started with campusing ... and the first thing they noticed was that I grasped the wood rung with an open grip using all 4 fingers. It had not before occurred to them to use their pinky finger in an Open grip. |
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Never tried the board but you don't need pockets to train pockets and edge works fine. Pinches are harder to train...never tried the rock prodigy board and its pinches. |