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All Locations >
Washington
> Central-E Casca…
> Leavenworth
> Icicle Creek
> Snow Creek Area
> Pearly Gates
Milky Way
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.8 from 43
votes
Routes in Pearly Gates
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Albatross T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Angelic Curses T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bring your Weedwacker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Celestial Groove T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cell Phone Posse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cloud Nine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dog Ate My Topo, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Easy Pickins T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Golden Delicious T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Heaven Sent T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Heavens Sake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hepped Up on Goofballs. T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Last Rites T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Leap of Faith T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Loaves of Fun T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lost Souls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Meathooks of Mercy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Milky Way S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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No Room For Squares T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pearly Gates T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Poison Balance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pope on a Rope T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Purgatory T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Scene is Clean, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Speak No Evil S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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TOOL TIME S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Veins of Glory S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Ron Cotman, Gordon Briody, Pauline Hsieh, Mike Croswaite |
| Page Views: | 2,021 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | ScottH on Jan 29, 2006 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
Milky Way is the 3rd bolted route from the right side of the Pearly Gates buttress, and begins up an obvious, left facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral (5.10), traverse left ~15 feet, and follow a line of bolts up interesting, slabby climbing to a ledge and belay from chains. The second pitch (better than the first) heads up straight off the belay for another 100' of fantastic climbing. After the initial 5.10 moves up and out of the dihedral, this climb delivers close to 200' of consistent, interesting 5.9 climbing.
Getting off this climb is a rope stretcher! When lowering off the second pitch our 60m rope wasn't quite long enough to reach back to the ledge-- the climber can lower to the left of the belay and downclimb easy terrain. Likewise, reaching the ground from the ledge may require a two rope rappell (even with 60's). Alternatively, walk right on the ledge to the Dog Ate My Topo anchors.
Getting off this climb is a rope stretcher! When lowering off the second pitch our 60m rope wasn't quite long enough to reach back to the ledge-- the climber can lower to the left of the belay and downclimb easy terrain. Likewise, reaching the ground from the ledge may require a two rope rappell (even with 60's). Alternatively, walk right on the ledge to the Dog Ate My Topo anchors.
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