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Routes in The Garden Wall
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Cobra S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lockjaw S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Shady Affair S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Shady Baby T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Shady Boy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shady Girl S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Dave Rogers, LP |
| Page Views: | 742 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Oct 16, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
This is another line that is just to the right of Shady Girl at the Garden Wall. This obvious line called out to be cleaned and climbed. It's partially clean at this point. A brush would be useful. It is probably safer as a TR than a lead.
Start about 6 feet to the right of Shady Girl. Follow a dihedral. The crux is likely exiting the tight dihedral on marginal gear (PG-13 or R). A decent #2 RP protects the exit from this dihedral. Higher up, you can finish left of a large, questionable block by clipping the last 3 bolts of Shady Girl or right on moderate face if on TR.
Rappel off the anchors for Shady Girl.
Just to clarify, the block sitting up ~3/4'rds the way up is too big to just launch with the road just below. It's fairly easy to avoid climbing right or left.
FWIW, this would be more challenging to lead for a shorter climber.
Start about 6 feet to the right of Shady Girl. Follow a dihedral. The crux is likely exiting the tight dihedral on marginal gear (PG-13 or R). A decent #2 RP protects the exit from this dihedral. Higher up, you can finish left of a large, questionable block by clipping the last 3 bolts of Shady Girl or right on moderate face if on TR.
Rappel off the anchors for Shady Girl.
Just to clarify, the block sitting up ~3/4'rds the way up is too big to just launch with the road just below. It's fairly easy to avoid climbing right or left.
FWIW, this would be more challenging to lead for a shorter climber.
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