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Poll: What shoe are you wearing on multipitch routes?

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
DoesNotCare wrote: I'm wanting a pair of Ra's for sport right at street shoe size, mostly because I want to be able to put on and take my shoes off faster cause I'm lazy!
Not super useful info for most folks, but I can tell you that Ras are much easier to put on one handed than Katanas!
GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385
VaGenius wrote:Masais are sick. You might like them resoled with a big slab of Onyx to stiffen them up :)
Have you tried the Ra? If so how does it compare with the masai?
reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
VaGenius wrote:Masais are sick. You might like them resoled with a big slab of Onyx to stiffen them up :)
Does that mean you are liking Onyx now? :)
John Farrell · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 85

Five Ten Copperhead or a Five Ten vMile. When they get trashed, I am not sure what I'll use, maybe the Moccasym.

Mark Wright · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 10

Mythos, 1.5 sizes smaller than my street shoe size (US 9.5 vs US 11). Super comfortable all day and relatively high performance...good in cracks too.

Kevin D · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 160

Have a pair of Evolv Bandits. Super comfortable. Have great padding over the top of the foot for cracks and the laces don't get in the way. Good at edging too.

jonathan.lipkin · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 70

Scarpa Force X. Got 'em a bit big, ie they don't destroy my toes when I put them on. Not bad for edging, smearing is ok too. Best thing is that at the end of they day my toes are not black and blue.

brian burke · · mammoth lakes, ca · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 165
jonathan.lipkin wrote:Scarpa Force X.
+1
Kerwin Loukusa · · PNW · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 135
JCM wrote: I've actually got my eye on those as my next multipitch shoe. How are they?
The Masai is the perfect blend of comfort and performance for technical climbing on long routes. They can smear, edge and jam with style. They are superlight as well, maybe 1/2 the weight of a pair of TC pros. Really impressed with the shoes!!
Jake Dickerson · · Lander, WY · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 3,843
Eliot Augusto wrote:I can wear Mythos all day without too much pain. I also haven't have much of an issue with edging like some people say they do. Plus they're great for cracks.
+1 for Mythos. Love em.
Paul-B · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 115

Scarpa Force X or Scarpa Techno X

Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,536

TC-Pro and my old Boreal Ballet with socks for really cold times.

Zac St Jules · · New Hampshire · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 1,188

Scarpa Force... which I think is now the Scarpa Vapor?

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385
Z.St.Jules wrote:Scarpa Force... which I think is now the Scarpa Vapor?
The force and the vapor are not the same shoe, the old force looked similar to the Vapor, which both came out around the same time, the force has been updated to the Force X, which I hear is a comfy all day shoe.
Paul-B · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 115
GhaMby wrote: the force has been updated to the Force X, which I hear is a comfy all day shoe.
It is the most comfortable shoe I've ever worn. Could be stiffer, but I really really like it for chill long trad routes.
Jfaub · · Ottawa, On · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 795

I have to hop on the Mythos bandwaggon. They are incredibly comfy, the rubber is super sticky, and I still feel like I can climb hard with them. Jamming cracks is a breeze.

Matt G · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 130

My TC Pro's are my go to for multi-pitch.

Travis Dustin · · Mexico Maine · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,665

TC Pros!!!!!! Bought them last year and havent looked back.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

I just got a pair of Mythos. They feel way comfortable than when wearing TC Pros. The TCs make my Achilles tendon swell.. painful. Just on slabby stuff.

Mythos are the only shoe I've ever broke in that felt better after the first day. I can remember rapping barefoot the first day I wore TC Pros.

Phil Esra · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 100

For easy routes, it doesn't matter--something comfortable (sized on the large side) and cheap, and leather for the reduced stench. Mythos are probably the lowest performance and most comfortable option--I don't understand why people with normal-shaped feet are willing to spend so much money on such a low-performance shoe.

For hard routes, I use my largest Miuras (sized with room for the toes to be flat). I take them off or fold the heel down at belays if my feet are uncomfortable. Outdoorgearlab talks about Miura lace vs. velcro as if they are very different shoes. I can't tell a difference; mine are half a size apart, so maybe that camouflages subtle differences.

I would not recommend velcro Miuras for easy (= hand-sized) cracks--the lowest velcro strap and metal ring get chewed up too fast. The laced ones hold up as well as anything else.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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