Mountain Project Logo

Consensus ratings glitch?

Original Post
Paul Zander · · Bern, CH · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 739

On this route: mountainproject.com/v/salt-…

One person has rated the climb .10b, one has rated it .10c. Shouldn't the consensus be .10b/c, or just .10? Instead it is showing me that the consensus is .10b. confused as to why...

Bill Shubert · · Lexington, MA · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 55

Ummmm, probably just rounding?

Craig Childre · · Lubbock, TX · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,860

The equation rounds down rather than up when a .5 difference is realized.

Nick Wilder · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 4,098

We recently stopped rounding and moved to a median-based system. Medians are the middle value of an ordered list. With just two votes, a median is one or the other...

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

Well that's because The opinion based subjective system known as Opinion based ratings Is extremely precise. It takes into account the first voters point system and since he has 17 more points he gets 22% more of the vote. But if the second climber has more pink points then he will get 42% more of the share. If you are an old traddie you get an extra 2% but if you are crusty you get -5%.

You see the subjective system is very precise. So clearly the route is only 10 B. So if you can't climb 10 BC you should definitely avoid this one at all costs.

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
Nick Wilder wrote:We recently stopped rounding and moved to a median-based system. Medians are the middle value of an ordered list. With just two votes, a median is one or the other...
While I think that's an improvement (& I've advocated this change), it does get a bit funny sometimes w/ even number of votes. Wikipedia entry says:

The median of a finite list of numbers can be found by arranging all the observations from lowest value to highest value and picking the middle one...If there is an even number of observations, then there is no single middle value; the median is then usually defined to be the mean of the two middle values
Doug Hemken · · Madison, WI · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 13,678

There are at least 3 algorithms for "rounding" the median. Pick one.

I think Greg D's answer is the BEST answer, even if it's not the most accurate! Certainly the most appropriate for an MP forum answer!

Ryan Nevius · · Perchtoldsdorf, AT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,837

Does it matter that the downgrader just did it on TR? I'm sure that should be incorporated into the algorithm somewhere... ;-)

Craig Childre · · Lubbock, TX · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,860

That was a Top Rope FLASH!!!! ;)

I'd suggest you try to ignore it. Ratings are purely a matter of opinion, and we all should judge for ourselves. I've learned to use them as a guide if only to avoid getting shut down, forced to bail mid route and leave booty. My home area, I look toward the routes I like, instead of the ratings. The ratings do make nice benchmarks to gauge progress.

I met a crew from Tuscon once, and they asked that we keep the route ratings to ourselves. They climbing based on what looked cool. To them, the ratings truly didn't matter. Know that they crushed into the 12's, for what it's worth.

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

It's pretty elementary that the mean of an even numbered list is the mean of the two middle values: if you say you are using the median, you should be doing that, NOT rounding down (or up, or picking the left or right value).

Paul Zander · · Bern, CH · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 739
teece303 wrote:It's pretty elementary that the mean of an even numbered list is the mean of the two middle values: if you say you are using the median, you should be doing that, NOT rounding down (or up, or picking the left or right value).
+1
David House · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 453

Here is the consensus and all individual ratings from Jungle Blues from Jupiter:

Consensus: 5.10c

Rick Vermeil 5.11b

tbol 5.11a/b

Ken Duncan 5.11a

Nate Harris 5.10c

How do you get a 10c consensus out of those numbers? Does the original poster of the route (Nate Harris in this case) carry more weight?

Thanks, David

Doug Hemken · · Madison, WI · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 13,678

Yes, Nate Harris is the route submitter, and there are not (yet) enough opinions to overrule him.

Jef Anstey · · St. John's, NL · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 140

how many are needed to overrule?

does the original count as 3? or is it a algorithm?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Discuss MountainProject.com
Post a Reply to "Consensus ratings glitch?"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started