Half Rope Advice

O.L.D.S.A.G. wrote:Reason being that I'm not sure what to do with the tag line while climbing? [...] Clipped and hang off the haul loop?

I believe this is the most common way.

The leader takes it up, so that if it gets stuck the second can clear the snag as they come up.

Patrick Shyvers wrote: I believe this is the most common way. The leader takes it up, so that if it gets stuck the second can clear the snag as they come up.

this also GREATLY simplifies self rescue if the leader/follower is more than 1/2 a rope length out

;)

Patrick Shyvers wrote: I believe this is the most common way. The leader takes it up, so that if it gets stuck the second can clear the snag as they come up.

If it gets stuck, how does the leader make forward progress? Does he unclip it and leave it?

wivanoff wrote: If it gets stuck, how does the leader make forward progress? Does he unclip it and leave it?

I haven't personally used a tag line, but when my actual climbing rope gets snagged, the combination of the leader & the belayer wiggling the line is always enough to free it.

If you think about it, you've dragged your climbing rope up countless rocks. A tag line is just another rope, just a bit skinner and no ATC on the end.

O.L.D.S.A.G. wrote: I'm not sure what to do with the tag line while climbing? Is it suppose to be coiled up and be carried by the second?

Your options are:
1. if it is 6mm or less put it in water bottle.
2. 7 or 8mm carry on your back.
3. 9mm or greater, forget it and just use double ropes.

One further possibility with fat tag lines is for the second to drag the rope up clipped to his harness.

Although having the leader pull it up sounds reasonable and does mean she has a spare rope in play if needed, it removes all the gains from climbing on a single: easy rope management, simul-climbing etc. Much better to just use two half ropes. With a tag and a lead line you will probably have to keep them separate, with half ropes or twins one big pile is fine.

Patrick Shyvers wrote: I haven't personally used a tag line, but when my actual climbing rope gets snagged, the combination of the leader & the belayer wiggling the line is always enough to free it. If you think about it, you've dragged your climbing rope up countless rocks. A tag line is just another rope, just a bit skinner and no ATC on the end.

I was referring to the part of your statement "the second can clear the snag as they come up."

wivanoff wrote: I was referring to the part of your statement "the second can clear the snag as they come up."

There's two times ropes get stuck.

1) When you are climbing

2) When you are pulling the rope up

The second can clear snags as they climb up in scenario #2. They cannot clear snags in scenario #1 because they are not climbing yet. Does that help?

Back to the unmatched pair discussion above. I have a new mammut genesis (8.5) and need to buy a second to complete the ser. Typically I climb doubles style but occasionally twin. I like the new triple rated ropes for long easy alpine trips. The Beal Opera is also 8.5. So it should do about the same on raps. I suppose because of different elongation the ropes should be clipped thru different biners when leading... whether running twin or double. Thoughts on this unmatched set?