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Home bouldering cave vs TreadWall...

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JEFFisNOTfunny · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 40

So I managed to snag myself a decent sized space in a barn. I'm interested in turning it into the best training environment I can. I have a hangboard, but it is staying put (air conditioning and pulleys), this is to replace a significant amount of time at the climbing gym.

My options are build a climbing wall 12' high. It would have a 12' wide 30° wall, a 12' wide 10° wall, a 12' wide vertical wall, a moon board and a campus board. I figured out the most efficient use of space, and I can fit all of that. My biggest concerns are lack of time/skill to devote to construction.

My other option is a Treadwall Kore, a moon board and a campus board. Besides the differences in having a treadwall vs a home woodie... The benefits to the treadwall setup include far less construction time/skill required.

If it were your gym, what would you want more? What do you think would be more effective for training? I usually work a 60ish hour work week and I generally spend 3 or so additional hours a day commuting. Time is important, that's why I want the home gym.

Thanks for the input.

Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 405

I would build the woody for its community enrichment value. It also depends a lot on what you want to get out of your training.

Rich Farnham · · Nederland, CO · Joined Aug 2002 · Points: 297
JEFFisNOTfunny wrote:I usually work a 60ish hour work week and I generally spend 3 or so additional hours a day commuting.
Whoa! When do you sleep? And how do you squeeze climbing into that work week?

I think you'll get the most useful replies if you describe what type of climbing you're training for. If you're primarily a boulderer, I'm not sure the treadwall would be that useful. But for everything else, the tread wall and hangboard set up could be pretty good.

I think about hanging a hangboard at home, but worry about getting a decent warm-up. The treadwall would be great for this, and for generally building power endurance.

Home walls can be fun, but they are also a lot of work. First you have to build the thing - which it sounds like might not be a skill you currently have. Then, you have to set routes. This actually takes a significant amount of time. It's fun, but it isn't climbing.
frankstoneline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 30

moon board, campus board and tread wall.
if you are strapped for time the moon system will keep you in quality new routes with little time invested to set. With these tools you can train pretty much everything climbing specific you need to.
Hang up some adjustable rings and such for doing core and opposition and you're golden.

JEFFisNOTfunny · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 40
Rich Farnham wrote: Whoa! When do you sleep? And how do you squeeze climbing into that work week? I think you'll get the most useful replies if you describe what type of climbing you're training for. If you're primarily a boulderer, I'm not sure the treadwall would be that useful. But for everything else, the tread wall and hangboard set up could be pretty good. I think about hanging a hangboard at home, but worry about getting a decent warm-up. The treadwall would be great for this, and for generally building power endurance. Home walls can be fun, but they are also a lot of work. First you have to build the thing - which it sounds like might not be a skill you currently have. Then, you have to set routes. This actually takes a significant amount of time. It's fun, but it isn't climbing.
Its not that I don't have the skill, I'm just concerned that it will become a BIG project. I am looking for a training solution, not a new construction project. I have hung hangboards, and built methods of hanging them, and once a 50 degree small wall.

My biggest concern with the treadwall is the lack of lateral movement. It also doesn't look wide enough to force heel/toe hooks. I am worried that it is replacing a much larger climbing surface, therefore there will be a significantly lacking in variety. The obvious plus is unlimited climbing. Also, there would be less holds/pads to purchase or make.

My concerns with the gym are getting too bored ARCing on the same 12' of vertical and 12' of 10 degree overhanging. I have set before (not alot, but I have), and I friends with the local setters from the gym too, so I am less concerned about that, but you are correct, it is a large undertaking.

I wanted the moon board with either the home gym or the tread wall. In addition to ready made problems, it gives me a good reference for difficulty.
JEFFisNOTfunny · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 40

I forgot to add, I'm primarily a weekend warrior (obviously due to my work schedule). I usually manage to get 20-30 or so days a year climbing outside. The terrain varies, but I try to get to the Gunks as much as I can. I usually take 2 trips a year to go sport climbing (usually RRG). I do boulder, but mostly in the gym as training, probably only 2-3 days a year outside.

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460

Can't you lock the tread wall and set a hard boulder problem? That'd give you the best of both worlds.

JEFFisNOTfunny · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 40

I think my only concerns with the tread wall is that there are only 280 t-nuts and it is only 6 feet wide. I don't want to miss out on too much movement practice.

Capt. Impatient · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0

Forget 30 degree and make a 45 degree or the moon board. I am in the process if taking down my 15 degree and 30 degree sections and making a 16 X 11 foot 45 degree wall.

JEFFisNOTfunny · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 40
Climber26 wrote:Forget 30 degree and make a 45 degree or the moon board. I am in the process if taking down my 15 degree and 30 degree sections and making a 16 X 11 foot 45 degree wall.
Its a pretty big space, the moon board is in addition to the 10 and 30 walls.

Right now I'm leaning towards the treadwall... Any drills that you think would be hard to replicate on it vs a regular wall?
Capt. Impatient · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0

I must have missed that the first time I read it. Just make a 45 degree wall. If you can make a certain move on a 45 just think of how easy it will be when you get to real rock. Also don't paint your wall or if you do don't put sand in the paint to give it texture. I did this and after a few sessions took a large drywall knife and scraped off all the sand. One slipp is like getting a road rash on your knuckles not very fun. But really go with the 45 you can get H.I.T strips and system holds and have an awesome training area.

Daniel Winder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 101

Sounds like a lot of possibilities. I vote for hangboard, campus, moon (I really want one of these, but lack space), tread, and a small boulder panel to set limit moves. All of the these are basically out of the box and climb apparatus, and it sounds like you want to climb, not build.

You mention keeping the hangboard where it is because there is AC. What is the climate like in the barn? Too cold, hot, dank, smelly, etc., and you might not want to use it.

You've definitely got to be psyched to train with that kind of schedule. Just pay someone to build it then do the finishing touch by simply adding the holds. You could be training on it very soon!

Good luck and post pics when it's done.

JEFFisNOTfunny · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 40
Daniel Winder wrote: You've definitely got to be psyched to train with that kind of schedule. Just pay someone to build it then do the finishing touch by simply adding the holds. You could be training on it very soon! Good luck and post pics when it's done.

Ha... I'm not made of money... So all construction will be me and what i can bribe friends to do for pizza, beer, and free climbing.

My schedule isn't that bad. My days off fall during the week, so at least I avoid the usual Gunks crowds. With the hours, some times I am forced to train in less than ideal conditions. ie... Home from work, sleep 3-4 hours, go to the gym, home to shower, then back to work. Having my own gym will allow me to sleep an extra hour or so.

Rest days are really important!!!
heppnerd · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 0

I own a tread wall kore and I love it . I too work 50-60 hours a week but my tread wall allows me to work out whenever ( I just got off it!) . First it will cost you around $6000 to get a new one . My thought was that if I didn't like it I could always sell it ,unlike a home woody. Second you can set up the wall for all kinds of training. 1rotation is about 22 ft so I start all my problem on the same board so they can be linked. Right now I have a 1 rotation v5 ,v6. ,v7 and v8 with a 2 rotation 5.11 warm up. The combos are endless. 5.11 to v5 . How about v8 into 88ft of non- stop 5.11. The work outsare very intense, it's hard to keep the wall stopped to shake out. Mine is fixed at a 45 degree angle so that might be part of the problem. My biggest suggestion is to try one before you buy one. Also is your barn heated ? I heard they can be very sluggish when cold .

JEFFisNOTfunny · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 40

The barn isn't heated, but I was planning on using a space heater or two in the winter. Summer is gonna be a sweatfest (hence leaving the Hangboard where it is).

I thought there was an automatic brake that kicked in if you got low enough on the treadwall. Couldn't you shake out when the machine stopped spinning?

Lanky · · Tired · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 255

A friend has a treadwall and it is sweet but has limitations. His is the version with the auto-stop. Here are some thoughts in no particular order:

1. There's a technique to making sure the auto-stop engages. Mainly you have to keep enough weight on your feet or the wall dumps you on the ground.

2. It's hard/impossible to force heel/toe hooks because of the width and the auto-stop action.

3. I've had the jerk of the auto-stop actually cause me to fall (pumped already, bad holds, sudden stop, floor).

4. You can't use giant holds because they wont' fit under the unit when that panel rolls through (not a big limitation).

5. It sometimes slows down in the winter because the oil in the gearbox gets thick with the cold.

6. When you get decent at climbing on it, it's super flexible. You can set short problems by not using the full rotation. You can climb forever to warm up. You can create a vast number of linkups, etc.

I think if you have a hangboard, then a treadwall and campus board would make a 100% complete training solution. But it is expensive. Building a wall is cheaper.

If you do build a wall, don't bother with the vert. I'd say 8-12 feet at 40 degrees or more, and another 8 feet at 30 and you'll be all set.

heppnerd · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 0

I agree with everything Lankey posted. As far as holds go email Andy at menagerie climbing. He has a Treadwall . Tell him the angle of your wall and your ability and he will recommend holds that will work for you. They are also cheaper than most other holds.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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