Layering for multipitch climbing

Matt.Zia wrote: Scott, how do you think the cap 3 compares to the R1? In my experience, the cap 4 is pretty much equivalent to the R1 in terms of warmth.

Probably about at least half the weight of the R1 with no hood. Best for either the hiking or climbing aspects. It's definitely a mid-layer posed more towards the "lighter" side, but plenty warm enough for activities.

Matt.Zia wrote:In my experience, the cap 4 is pretty much equivalent to the R1 in terms of warmth.

I disagree with this. My R1 feels at least twice as thick as my Cap4 hoody (which has become my all time favorite layer).

I hike/climb unusually hot and sweaty and while I'd be roasting in the R1 for anything but mid-winter approaches the Cap4 is perfect for 50% of winter days, shoulder season ski touring and summer alpine climbing.

Dave Bn wrote: I disagree with this. My R1 feels at least twice as thick as my Cap4 hoody (which has become my all time favorite layer). I hike/climb unusually hot and sweaty and while I'd be roasting in the R1 for anything but mid-winter approaches the Cap4 is perfect for 50% of winter days, shoulder season ski touring and summer alpine climbing.

Although the R1 is a top notch piece, if you are a hot blooded person when hiking like me, I can barely wear the thing. It's fine at the belay ice climbing, but man it's a hot piece.

What's the fit like on the cap 4? Standard or oversized patagonia?

Scott McMahon wrote: What's the fit like on the cap 4? Standard or oversized patagonia?

Slim, base layer fit. Not oversized.

As long as this is moving over to an R1 thread, I've been happy with the cloudveil run don't walk top.

Aside from cloudveil's spotty history, sizing issues and lack of inventory if you can find one of these hooded polypro layers I'd grab one. I use it more than my R1.

The keyword in "fast and light" is "fast". You choose the most minimal system you can get away with that if you slow down, you'd be uncomfortable. It all depends on the climber's confidence in the given terrain and risk tolerance. If it's in the summer, all I bring is a Houdini. In shoulder seasons or higher elevations, Nano Puff. I only bring a hardshell on multi-day trips, when I'm uncertain of the forecast. Otherwise, start early and climb fast before the PM storms. I second (or third?) carrying a thin beanie.

For me, the most important layer for multi-pitch climbs is your baselayer - splurge on a thinnest merino wool T-shirt or long sleeve. They regulate temps very well that's why I wear them even in the summer (you are a fool if you are climbing in the sun in the summer anyway unless you're high up). In my experience, Icebreaker garments are more durable than Smartwool, hence they cost more. R1 is way too much of a layer for anything above 40 degrees rock and 10 degrees ice.

If anything, bring extra energy bars - pack small and will keep you warm and energized during unexpected delays.

Another vote here for wool. We love Ibex and climb in their lightweight wool T-shirts all the time.

They also make a softshell jacket (Cirque?) that's very wind-resistant. And since it's largely wool, it also handles rain well. A weightless little Patagonia shell over that has kept me warm (and only slightly damp) through typical RMNP afternoon gully-washers.

My take for shady, potentially very windy climbing with temps in low 50's (conditions in which I have gotten nearly hypothermic when dressed lightly). I could get away with less than this when I was younger, but with senior citizen status seems to come less cold resistance.

Climbing Tops

Tee-shirt baselayer in case it gets warm.
Patagonia Cap 4 Hoody (R1 is too warm for me for temps above the 40's)
Rab Vapourise Lite Jacket (Lighter, breathes better than Marmot Driclime)

Belay Jacket (yeah, I need one if it is shady, low fifties, blowing)

Rab Xenon (New models like Rab Strata with Polartec Alpha are great winter moving pieces but are less windproof and so less suitable for belay duty.)

Rain/Wind Shell: Or Helium II. Depending on circumstances, I take the shell but not the belay jacket, the belay jacket but not the shell, or both.

Rain pants: almost never for multipitch crag climbing. Maybe on certain summer back-country alpine climbs.

Bottoms

Light softshell trousers
Long underwear (powerstretch or cap 2 depending on anticipated temps. Makes an enormous difference when it gets a little chilly and doesn't seem too bad to me when it warms up a bit.)
modified socks (no foot, ankle stirrup) to cover bare ankles

Hike in: Many of the routes I've been doing involve leaving a pack at or near the base of the route. In that case, I'll wear a dedicated top for hiking in that will get sweaty but which I don't wear on the climb. Usually the top can be hung somewhere and will be dry and ready for the hike out when I get back from the climb.

Lightweight wicking shirt
Cap 4 equivalent hoody
Houdini style wind shirt
Nano puff pullover

I'll mix n match depending on weather but this has been the best system I found. Love how I can clip nano and Houdini on harness.