kid friendly approach/climbing near Boulder

Hello all, I have a few days off next week and am heading to Boulder with my climbing partner and my 5 year old and 10 year old. We are looking for a reasonably family friendly crag that can accommodate some sport climbing (5.9 to 5.11) and some easier top rope setups for the kids. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

mountainproject.com/v/nip-a…

Nip and Tuck crag... no approach and easy to set up top-ropes!

In Boulder Canyon try:

The Riviera. 5.6 to 5.10+ sport routes. Bring trad gear for a few nice dihedrals. All climbs need to be led to set-up TRs. Sunny and potentially hot rock, but some shade at base. Often crowded. Short but steep uphill approach. Good selection of moderate sport routes, quality rock.

Nip and Tuck. Great moderate topropes, a classic 5.9 finger crack, and a quiver of bolted routes. Most all climbs can be set-up to TR from the top. Super easy access, some highway noise, often in use by guided parties and others. Some loose rock at top. Extended shade.

Castle Rock. West Face area has a number of climbs 5.5 to 5.10. West Face route leads to bolted anchors by a tree. Many variations. Need to lead to do anything else here, and need a full rack. Bailey's Overhang is a classic 5.8 with bolted anchors (need full 60m rope to slingshot). Also, Curving Crack 5.9, Skunk Crack 5.9, Comeback Crack 5.10, Final Exam 5.11-.

Thanks for the info. We are completely void of trad gear or experience but don't mind leading easy sport routes to setup a TR for the kids. Thanks again for the recommendations.

The Watermark (Boulder Canyon).

Punk Rock and Mt. Boner (Ironclads).

Catslab (Clear Creek Canyon).

PRRose wrote:The Watermark (Boulder Canyon). Punk Rock and Mt. Boner (Ironclads). Catslab (Clear Creek Canyon).

What is the water level like right now? Looks like you have to cross the creek to get to the watermark.

Nathan Kofahl wrote: What is the water level like right now? Looks like you have to cross the creek to get to the watermark.

Nope, you can use the tyrolean for Avalon. You could also check out Boulderado—super easy access, can set up TRs, one 5.9 sport on the lower tier, and tons of sport above it at Animal World.

Animal World is a crag in Boulder Canyon with a few classics. A couple of 8's and 9's have bolts (although some eat gear). Avalon is a place that I take beginners because it's single pitch and has decent communication.

Hmmm, maybe not a good idea to use the Avalon tyrol right now after all: mountainproject.com/v/avalo…

Abram Herman wrote:Hmmm, maybe not a good idea to use the Avalon tyrol right now after all: mountainproject.com/v/avalo…

Was just reading that topic. I think I'll hold off on Avalon since I'll be back in the area next month and can see what you guys determine is going on with the ropes/boulder to which they are attached.

Do you guys have a resource that lists GPS coordinates or mileage to the crags from the Nederland side? We are staying at Kelly Dahl Campground (unless someone has a better recommendation) so we'll be heading in from the other direction.

Thanks again for all the recommendations. If we get in early enough and the weather cooperates tomorrow I might try to visit Animal world. Some of the climbs there look to be both awesome and easy (Animation looks like a great introduction to the area) to get a feel for how climbs in Boulder are rated relative to the stuff down here in New Mexico.

That gives us an afternoon to figure out where we'll spend the day Wednesday (again assuming weather cooperates)

Nathan, having had 3 go through the ages you mention and trying to get in 5.9 to 5.11, there are some challenges to what's been mentioned.

1) Catslab may be okay with the low angle 5.4 and wandering a bit.
2) doing any tyrol with a 5 year old will be iffy, which would include Avalon, Watermark, . Boulder Creek is a bit high to wade, even up by Castle Rock.
3) there isn't much for a 5 year old at Riviera. At best, they get 10-15 feet of climbing before it gets too reachy for a 5 year old.
4) Turtle Rock may be okay, but it'll be all TR'ing without trad gear.
5) Dinosaur Mountain has things like Babyhorn (in the sun) and Der Zerkle's West face (in the shade).
6) further afield, up near Estes is Lily Mountain.
7) Happy Hour may be a challenging approach for a 5 year old. It'll be hot in the middle of the day, too.

Thanks to everyone for the info. We ended up climbing with the kids at nip tuck. My climbing partner and I played around on the sport routes while we were waiting for the easy wall to clear out. The 5.12 on that wall proved more than I could handle as I couldn't figure out how to get through the crux. The arête was cool.

Once the kids had climbed their fill we sent them with the other adults on the trip to go explore one of the nearby lakes and headed for animal world. Oddly we never actually made it to animal world. We were pressed for time and ended up at mine hole crag and some other small wall up there that I still can't identify.

One of these days we'll get back to Boulder and follow someone up to animal world my trail reading skills must be rather poor as I kept getting us to walls not named Animal World.

Loved Boulder. Will be back for sure.