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Best Trad @ Tahoe (Not to miss routes)

Original Post
Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445

Favorite trad routes in the Tahoe area to hit on a four day climbing trip?
Heading over there the end of this week.

I know we need to do the 50 classic Travelers Buttress 5.9

What other 5 to 10 routes in the area are just "can't miss these!"
Anything from 5.0 to 5.12

Thanks! Go…

Tom Allen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 55

Definitely do Travelers Buttress, but Lovers Leap has many other excellent climbs. Corrugation Corner is probably among the best 5.7s anywhere, and the link up with Surrealistic Pillar is pretty awesome. Haystack, Bear's Reach, East Wall, and East Cracks are excellent. I'm sure there's some good stuff harder than 5.9 but I haven't climbed it.

EricF · · San Francisco · Joined May 2012 · Points: 120

The Line at lovers leap, also go up to Sugar Loaf for a day some great routes and give grand illusion and the belay cave a look for fun

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,241

Loaf might be cranking heat in this season.

Best single pitch 5.10 is likely One of these Days at Woodfords. Mucho development on the "summer side" of the canyon.

Donner has some consistently high quality cragging. Snowshed is packed with more quality climbs than any other Tahoe crag of its size, and Black Wall has many options, among which Touch and Go, One Hand Clapping, and Bourbon Street rate high in the multi pitch category. But hit it after one or two in summer. Donner shines in the 5.10-12 range and has some of the best crack and face climbs around.

Vanishing Point at the Leap is also a worthy contender, not noted as much (likely because it's wide) but as high quality as anything there.

I would be remiss to leave Eagle Lake Cliffs out. Very high quality cracks in the 5.10-11 range over looking an excellent alpine lake for cooling off afterward.

Jeff Gicklhorn · · Tucson, AZ · Joined May 2008 · Points: 295

Lots to see and do!

Eagle Lake Canyon: Eagle Lake Cliff
Space Truckin' 10a
Seems to Me 10d
Space Walk 11+

Donner Summit: Snowshed Wall
Nova Express 9
Bottomless Topless 10a
Farewell to Arms 10b
Peter Principle 11a
Manic Depression 11d
Monkey Paws 12a
Panic in Detroit 12c

Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445

Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!

This is exactly what I was hoping for…
A list to get us going at some different areas.
Always nice to have a few quality lines in mind.
Never have climbed around the area before.
(I know 24 years of climbing from Canada to Patagonia, but never at Tahoe! Now is the time!)

Cheers,
Cory

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Not sure how hot the Phantom Spires will be but Candyland (.10c) is classic.

Other good routes (elsewhere) are the Fracture (.10d), Bolee Gold (.10c). Good suggestions for climbs at the Leap. I also enjoyed Tombstone Terror (.10c).

Laine Christman · · Reno, NV · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 1,305

You should check out Babylon Crag at Donner. All American Handcrack is a phenom route and there are plenty more uber fun cracks and face climbs to crank on. Definitely a full day's worth of climbing in a nice setting with no crowds.

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245

Hospital Corner
Powerlust
Tombstone Terror

… all classic 1-2 pitch routes at the Leap. Could be combined with The Line and a few other routes for a day, or you could pick one or two and do them on the same day as Traveller's Buttress as they are all fairly close together.

Joe Huggins · · Grand Junction · Joined Oct 2001 · Points: 105

Roofer Madness at Lover's,Phantasia is the classic 5.9 frightfest.
Phantom Spires is a great place.

John Jackson · · Homewood, CA · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 15

Imaginary Voyage - Black Wall/Donner - Four great pitches of 5.11.

Salamanizer Ski · · Off the Grid… · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 18,914

4 days huh, and you say up to 5.12?

Definitely spend a day or two at Cal Domes. It's a trad climbing haven totally off the radar. Email for details.

Routes not to be missed there.

Rainbows End - .10d, Wild overhanging three pitch route.
Laughing Hyena - 5.11+, Nothing harder than .11a, nothing easier than .10d.
Silk Road - 5.11c, As good as the Rostrum and Astroman. 8 full pitches.
War of the Walls - 5.10c, 1st pitch = 180ft splitter, the rest is just ok.
Beacons to Mars - .10c 7 pitches of nubbin pinchin, butt puckering friction.

Ryan Watts · · Bishop, CA · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 25

I spent a few days at the leap a couple weeks ago. It was my first time there so idk if I can say "best at the leap" but I will say that hospital corner (10a) and the direct start to surrealistic pillar (10b) are both awesome.

Beware the afternoon sun, it is oppressive.

Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445

Thanks much peeps!

We arrived to Tahoe area on Thursday afternoon, and ran up to the Leap to try out the 50 classic.
Or that was the plan if no parties were on it. To our delight no one was in sight, the clouds were nice and gray, and the sun was at bay for 1pm! A sweet day one, and first climb here!
I had lots of fun on the off width, but really loved every pitch. .

Friday we went back to the Leap to find many peeps on the walls.
We walked up to see what was open. Hospital Corner is open, sweet!
I was excited to do another one of my friends climbs. (Jay smith FFA 1977.)
Wow, that corner pitch was awesome climbing! Too bad it doesn't just keep going!

After that route, we figured we better climb Power Lust since we were on that main ledge.
That was great, but more delicate then power. Boy if you are a short person... 11++ probably.

Next up was some random runout thingy just left of C.Corner.
Three bolts, a few cams nested together in a flared crack, and a slung knob took me to the top of this 35m pitch ending at bolt anchors.

To finish our day up we climbed Cor.Corner, which was very fun on the arête!

Today is our friends wedding, so no climbing... Then we have two more day before heading back to the RADo. Hmm... What to climb next. Maybe time for another new area for us, but man that heat... The Leap is good for the hot temps!

Thanks again! Signing off from CA dispatch #1. ;)

Cory

Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445
50 classic

Summit beverages! Climb in style!

Watch out for monkey belays!

Just a few photos from my phone.
(I have a nice camera, but can't download them to here yet..)
splitclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 18

If it is blazin hot, Go to eagle lake/creek for cool temps and some killer single pitch cracks.

Salamanizer Ski · · Off the Grid… · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 18,914

Good times!

That thing you climbed left of Cor-Corner is Crash Landing. Another excellent Jay Smith route. Just FYI.

Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445
This route??

Salamanizer, you mean this route? What is the grade on this thing?
I guessed 9+ to 10- sort of range.. Fun (runout) climb though!

I will get some more photos here when I am done sorting them.
Thanks again folks!

C
Joe Crawford · · Truckee, CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 105

Day 1: Lover's Leap
Surrealistic Pillar Direct 5.10b, 3p
Traveler Buttress 5.9, 4p
Scimitar 5.9 3p

Day 2: Eagle Lake Cliff
Space Truckin' 10a
Quest for Glory 10d
Space Walk 11c/d (I haven't done this one, but it's supposed to be the best crack in tahoe area)
Seems to Me 10c
Buster Brown 10b
Moonflower 10b

Day 3: Big Chief AM/ Snowshed PM
Anything that looks fun from the ground at big chief probably is.
At Snowshed:
Jam Session 10b
Molar Concentration 10b
Ariel 11a/b (Sport)
Bottomless Topless 10a
Manic Depression 11c/d
Farewell to Arms 10b

Day 4: Black Wall
Solo the Labyrinth 5.7
Firecracker or New Moon 10b/d
link to One Hand Clapping 9 3p
Touch and Go 9+ 3p
Bourbon Street w/ Rat's tooth ctr start 10b 3p.

Edit to add that I should look at the dates of the thread, but stand by my itinerary.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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