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Belay Question

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
rgold wrote:As is not unusual, we're heading down the road of false dichotomies. Of course you watch the leader if you can, I don't think anyone is arguing for deliberate inattention, but choosing a stance far from the rock just so that you can watch the leader may not be the safest approach as Bearbreeder has said, especially for trad gear that can zipper as a result, but also because of greater exposure to rock fall and the potential for being moved too much by a big fall impact...
As usual, rgold is the voice of reason. If you CAN watch the climber, then you do. It's not rocket science. If I am cragging or low enough on a pitch that my belayer can see me, then they damn well better be paying attention and watching me. Period. Or don't belay me. They can use feel and site, but if they can see me, then they will be watching me. Should they move to a more dangerous place just to be able to see me? No, that's ridiculous. If I am out of sight, then my belayer should still be able to do an adequate job of belaying me.
Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Ian Stewart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 155

25 feet out from the wall and clipped into a piece barely higher than your belay device will put the rope's force during a fall almost parallel to the ground. Unless you're belaying a small child or are already prepared with your feet up on something to oppose the force, there's no way you're going to catch them without first being pulled onto your face.

I can imagine there are rare situations where being 25 feet from the wall is a good thing, but I've certainly never encountered one. I usually look away whenever I see a belayer standing far from the wall, because more often than not it ends poorly when the climber falls.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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