Ideal rope for rappelling
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What's the best rope to buy for multi-pitch rappelling when two ropes are required? I have a 9.8 x 70m rope I'm taking on a trip out west. Should I buy an 8mm x 70m rope for rappel? Dynamic or static? And what's the best knot to connect the two ropes? According to Bob Gaines new AMGA SPI book, I should use a flemish bend with stoppers. But that seems likely to snag. Even the new Falcon book on Rappelling doesn't have much advice to offer on this. Any insight/discussion would be most appreciated. Thanks! |
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If this were me, and I already had a 9.8mm x 70m rope and needed a second rope for mult-pitch climbing that required doubled-rope rappels, I would just get another 9.8mm x 70m rope. |
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Michael C wrote:8mm is cord, not rope.Really? I have a pair of mammut half ropes that say otherwise. |
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Xam wrote: Really? I have a pair of mammut half ropes that say otherwise.Ok, I'm talking in the world of everyday average joe climbing and cragging. |
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Hey Bob, it isn't recommended to match a dynamic rope with a static while rapping due to the elongation differences. If you mean to rap off multi-pitch climbs I'd purchase another dynamic rope that is the same diameter as your 9.8 line. The diameters can be different though and you can still make it work. |
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8mm half rope of the same length Mark Lewis wrote: As far as tying the two ropes together, well, you have a handful of options to choose from which depends on the conditions. I have found that usually I gravitate toward the EDK or a figure 8, with the difficulty of pulling ropes the deciding factor. I use the EDK when there is a rough pull with a good possibility of the knot jamming in a constriction or something; the EDK has a profile that is less prone to jamming in a crack, etc. I've never used a flemish bend with stoppers, though that would certainly work as well.DO NOT use a figure 8 (unless its a flemish bend) ;) |
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Michael C wrote:If this were me, and I already had a 9.8mm x 70m rope and needed a second rope for mult-pitch climbing that required doubled-rope rappels, I would just get another 9.8mm x 70m rope. 8mm is cord, not rope. So unless you're rapping on a single line with a pull cord... Euro Death Knot (EDK) is the most common method for tying two ropes together for a rappel, with stopper knots on both ends. |