Ideal rope for rappelling

What's the best rope to buy for multi-pitch rappelling when two ropes are required? I have a 9.8 x 70m rope I'm taking on a trip out west. Should I buy an 8mm x 70m rope for rappel? Dynamic or static? And what's the best knot to connect the two ropes? According to Bob Gaines new AMGA SPI book, I should use a flemish bend with stoppers. But that seems likely to snag. Even the new Falcon book on Rappelling doesn't have much advice to offer on this. Any insight/discussion would be most appreciated. Thanks!

If this were me, and I already had a 9.8mm x 70m rope and needed a second rope for mult-pitch climbing that required doubled-rope rappels, I would just get another 9.8mm x 70m rope.

8mm is cord, not rope. So unless you're rapping on a single line with a pull cord...

Euro Death Knot (EDK) is the most common method for tying two ropes together for a rappel, with stopper knots on both ends.

Michael C wrote:8mm is cord, not rope.

Xam wrote: Really? I have a pair of mammut half ropes that say otherwise.

Hey Bob, it isn't recommended to match a dynamic rope with a static while rapping due to the elongation differences. If you mean to rap off multi-pitch climbs I'd purchase another dynamic rope that is the same diameter as your 9.8 line. The diameters can be different though and you can still make it work.

If you're plan is to do a bunch of rapping such as in a canyoneering setting, definitely go with two static lines. One of my favorite lines being: store.canyoneeringusa.com/c…

As far as tying the two ropes together, well, you have a handful of options to choose from which depends on the conditions. I have found that usually I gravitate toward the EDK or a figure 8, with the difficulty of pulling ropes the deciding factor. I use the EDK when there is a rough pull with a good possibility of the knot jamming in a constriction or something; the EDK has a profile that is less prone to jamming in a crack, etc.

I've never used a flemish bend with stoppers, though that would certainly work as well.

8mm half rope of the same length

just be aware that the 8mm side might slide slightly faster through the belay device at times, so tie knots at the ends

it allows you to lead back up if needed in an emergency

static is totally fine fore rapping if you decide to go that route, just make sure you get it around 10% longer than your dynamic line

it only takes once when hauling another ~10mm rope on lead on a pitch at your limit to realize that theres no real point in dragging up another full size rope for rappel unless thats all you have

as to knot joining ... simply use an EDK even with a 10.1mm and 8mm it was tested as plenty strong for rappel situations

blackdiamondequipment.com/e…

Mark Lewis wrote: As far as tying the two ropes together, well, you have a handful of options to choose from which depends on the conditions. I have found that usually I gravitate toward the EDK or a figure 8, with the difficulty of pulling ropes the deciding factor. I use the EDK when there is a rough pull with a good possibility of the knot jamming in a constriction or something; the EDK has a profile that is less prone to jamming in a crack, etc. I've never used a flemish bend with stoppers, though that would certainly work as well.

Michael C wrote:If this were me, and I already had a 9.8mm x 70m rope and needed a second rope for mult-pitch climbing that required doubled-rope rappels, I would just get another 9.8mm x 70m rope. 8mm is cord, not rope. So unless you're rapping on a single line with a pull cord... Euro Death Knot (EDK) is the most common method for tying two ropes together for a rappel, with stopper knots on both ends.