Type: | Trad, Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
FA: | Brislawn/Shainman, 1999 |
Page Views: | 2,477 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Alex Shainman on Oct 2, 2007 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Blob, Security Risk
Details
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with closures are crucial to the eagles’ success.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with closures are crucial to the eagles’ success.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
What really is the purpose of this route? I assure you it was not to start all the bullshit that transpired after we put it up. I, personally had no contempt for Steve for chopping it. Jeff had bolted it and I merely made the first free lead. As a matter of fact, when Steve called me on it, I told him just to do what he felt was right.... He did and I gave the route the moniker Chop Yer Dieckhoff (not to be condescending, but I thought it sounded funny). Jeff and I, when proposed by Mark Rolofson, were adamant that he NOT rebolt it (with "some glue-in bolt action at Bell Buttress"). We both saw where this could go, and we were right.
Yesterday, I went up to look at the cliff's newest bolted line which ascends the right arete from Garden Of Eden's crux (no comment).... It's been 2 years since I lived in Boulder and had been to Bell. As I sat there contemplating the new route, I also stared at The Purpose. I feel it's now another travesty, especially with glue-ins and extra bolts that Mark added (1st and 5th bolts).... It's just ugly!
To clear up any confusion around this route and the line that Pete Takeda and others headpointed.... Nobody has ever lead the crux of the Purpose (current second bolt) w/o clipping the bolt. Pete's line did Grand I's crux dyno to the roof and joined the Purpose at the vert fin and then mostly stayed on the left where G.I. Direct follows a double line of incipient cracks before ultimately traversing right at a horizontal crack.... Jeff and I were originally wanting to do the route this way (after the independent crux utilizing just one bolt), but because neither of us were willing to drill the crux bolt on the lead (to better the ladder-placed bolt style of G.I.), we ultimately decided to create an independent, relatively safe, rap-bolted mixed route (Pete's Route had not been redpointed yet and we never were aware that he was working on it). We made a decision which, we felt, took the "least of all evils" approach at a mostly trad crag. Then, all hell broke loose....
So, here is this route.... It's basically a short, bouldery sequence past the second bolt (Mark added the first bolt there to "keep the rope out of your way"??). Once you figure out how to grab the big crystal, you get up on the vert fin and continue up on diminishing difficulties to an easy crack with good finger size pro and then an independent anchor that Mark installed.
So, this route is essentially just another stretch of rock that became leadable by the masses...Its mode of existence or purpose did not better another style of climbing, nor did it truly set any sort of precedence. Perhaps its purpose will forever be left to be decided by each individual who will form their own opinion....
Yesterday, I went up to look at the cliff's newest bolted line which ascends the right arete from Garden Of Eden's crux (no comment).... It's been 2 years since I lived in Boulder and had been to Bell. As I sat there contemplating the new route, I also stared at The Purpose. I feel it's now another travesty, especially with glue-ins and extra bolts that Mark added (1st and 5th bolts).... It's just ugly!
To clear up any confusion around this route and the line that Pete Takeda and others headpointed.... Nobody has ever lead the crux of the Purpose (current second bolt) w/o clipping the bolt. Pete's line did Grand I's crux dyno to the roof and joined the Purpose at the vert fin and then mostly stayed on the left where G.I. Direct follows a double line of incipient cracks before ultimately traversing right at a horizontal crack.... Jeff and I were originally wanting to do the route this way (after the independent crux utilizing just one bolt), but because neither of us were willing to drill the crux bolt on the lead (to better the ladder-placed bolt style of G.I.), we ultimately decided to create an independent, relatively safe, rap-bolted mixed route (Pete's Route had not been redpointed yet and we never were aware that he was working on it). We made a decision which, we felt, took the "least of all evils" approach at a mostly trad crag. Then, all hell broke loose....
So, here is this route.... It's basically a short, bouldery sequence past the second bolt (Mark added the first bolt there to "keep the rope out of your way"??). Once you figure out how to grab the big crystal, you get up on the vert fin and continue up on diminishing difficulties to an easy crack with good finger size pro and then an independent anchor that Mark installed.
So, this route is essentially just another stretch of rock that became leadable by the masses...Its mode of existence or purpose did not better another style of climbing, nor did it truly set any sort of precedence. Perhaps its purpose will forever be left to be decided by each individual who will form their own opinion....
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