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Shoes for Sasquatch climbers

Original Post
John Buchenauer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 35

I have big feet. Not abnormally Shaq-style big, but 13 (47) street shoes. I always hear my climbing buddies saying "Oh these shoes are so great! You should get a pair!" Then I go find the sizes available and they max out at 12's or 45/46. I've been climbing less than a year and I dunno if my feet are ready to be considering downsizing. I've been in Mad Rock Phoenix's since day one and used them for everything from face to slab to severe overhangs and they work, mostly. I like them because they were dirt cheap and I can crank them down so they're snug on my really low volume feet, plus I've had very good luck with the stickiness and durability of the rubber. I know other big-footed climbers exist out there and I was hoping you could give me and other sasquatches some sound advice.

I was really hoping to get something slightly aggressive, I already have a super aggressive shoe (Mad Rock Con-flict 2.0; again, dirt cheap and one of the few shoes that could fit), but I want something a little bit nicer than a Phoenix.

Max Forbes · · Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 108

I recently got my friend, who also has street size 13 shoes, into climbing. We bought him a pair of Sportvia tarantulace. He wears a size 47. I think there a great shoe at a great price, and perform pretty good all around. Mind you he's just getting into climbing, but he did fairly well on just about everything this weekend and was raving about the shoes. Not saying there the best, but hey, they work for him so give it a shot. Best of luck.

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

I wear a 13/14 and I like high end shoes (you get what you pay for.) i like the Anasazi vcs, tenaya Masai, Tc pro (in a 46), solution.

You should expect La sportiva to fit in a size or two smaller than street, tenaya and five ten fit in street sizing.

Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55

I've fought this for over 30 years now. Right now I'm in Tenaya Masai's in a 47 3/4 or what is now a 13 1/2 (an almost completely flat toe). I'm a trad climber but these perform with my high end Sportivas on about everything except the hardest problems for me. My biggest complaint is all the slingshot rand stuff - it doesn't let the shoes stretch and conform to my foot like the older shoes did.

M Best · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 25
GhaMby wrote:I wear a 13/14 and I like high end shoes (you get what you pay for.) i like the Anasazi vcs, tenaya Masai, Tc pro (in a 46), solution. You should expect La sportiva to fit in a size or two smaller than street, tenaya and five ten fit in street sizing.
This is good advice. I'm a 13.5/14 Street. I wear either Velcro Murias or TC Pros in the 46 (Uncomfortable for the first few days out then much better) and Anasazi Moc in 12.5. Mythos also go up to 48s although I seriously recommend dropping two sizes in those as they stretch more than any other shoe I've worn.
Ian Stewart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 155

I wear 45 street, and my favorite shoes are the lace up Miuras in size 42.5. I have three pairs. They're snug but not so much that I can't walk around in them for a while, plus they perform fantastically. There's nothing I wouldn't do with them. I'd say they're "slightly aggressive" and they're available up to size 46 so I don't think you'd have a problem fitting into them.

John Buchenauer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 35

Thanks for all the advice. I did try on a pair of 44.5 Murias (saw them "used" for 70 bucks) but couldn't edge, my toes were just too cramped. I thought they would stretch, I just didn't know how much. I've looked at a bunch of different ones and I think the Tenaya's look really interesting. I may be getting a pair soon so it'll be fun to try them out.

Joel Alcantara · · Gilman (45 min NE of EC) · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0

I am a size 14-15 and the mad rock drifters a full size down (13) fit really nice and tight like a cast but weren't uncomfortable, have a really nice tacky sole and soft supple leather body. I HIGHLY recommend them.

Garret Nuzzo Jones · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,436

Locker probably remembers working on my size 12 Anasazis and size 45 TC Pros. Poor things are grossly distended on the sides too since I have such a wide foot. La Sportiva can fit pretty well if you get leather.

Paul-B · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 115

I have the same problem, I am also a size 47. I was just trying on shoes yesterday and commenting on how frustrating it is to find shoes in my size range.

Things I have found that work- Scarpa Force x's- I wear a 46.5- the stretch a bit. Scarpa Techno's- I had the techno's previously, they just came out with the techno x- it comes up to a size 48. I tried on the 47, I think with a bit of stretch it'll work. When I first started climbing I used mad rock phoenix, they were okay. I would suggest you check out the techno x's, they are definitely a nicer shoe that the mad rock's.

Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55

Considering that a size 46 La Sportiva is pretty close (a bit tight still) - what size Evolv Pontas II would be about the same fit?

Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55
Locker wrote:
But when I polish my toenail - my shoes scratch them up - what's a guy to do? Any "real" advice ? :)
Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55

I've lost a few of my toenails from climbing shoes - is that close?

DrugDoc · · Dix, IL · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

I also wear a 13 (46/47) wide, with a high arch. Recently got a pair of Millet Hybrids, and so far really like them.

peter coe · · utah · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 425

I happen to pick up a pair of brand new evolv rental shoes. Size 15!!!! I grabbed them mostly because I have never seen a size 15 climbing shoe. If anyone is interested, I have them for sale here:

mountainproject.com/v/gear-…

Andrew Henderson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

It technically all depends on how your feet are shaped. Sportiva has the fattest heel and SOME Sportiva shoes are accommodating for a wide foot. If you are looking for an aggressive shoe check out the Testarosa, If you are wanting a flat edging shoe I'd check the Nago over the Tarantula(ce) and that's a good place to start in the more popular line. Plus the laces help with high volume. (If you're looking for Velcro try the Miura- but it won't be as wide.

You might also try to look at the Five Ten Stonelands, I've seen a size or two of those higher than in other shoes. As well- You might try the Mocasym as it'll stretch to any foot you can slide in it as it is all leather. I could say the same of the Nago.

A lot of the answers could change based on your specific needs. If you have a wide foot (like triple E), or if your foot is high volume (meaning lots of volume on the top of the foot), or if your toe box is wide (meaning it's wide around the areas of your toes), and even the length of your toes affect the fit.

If you had some specifics I could help more, but the main thing I would say it...

Climb in what you have fun climbing in, or you won't climb. Find something you like and enjoy it. Don't force on a bad pair of shoes because they might be cool.

John Buchenauer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 35

Andrew, I have pretty narrow feet without too much volume in the toe box. I'm looking for something that's slightly downturned, but not a Solutions. Something I can get better edging on than a Phoenix. I just did a whole session in my super aggressive shoes and by the end my toes were feeling it. Seems like there's a lot more shoes out there that will fit, my local store just didn't carry them. I've ordered a pair of Tenayas so we'll see how those turn out. So far I've only heard good things about them.

Paul-B · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 115

Recently bought the Scarpa Techno X's in a 47, they are actually a hair big for me. I'm selling them here if interested:

mountainproject.com/v/scarp…

Ryan West · · Warwick, NY · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0

I wear a size 13 street, with a somewhat wide foot. I sized the miuras VS down one and they broke in great. Anasazis as well, although I would size them a half size down from my sreet if I was to buy again.

Mike Gilbert · · Bend, OR · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 21

I wear 13's in street shoes too and got Vapors pretty recently. They are a solid all around shoe but kinda just meh at every one thing.

Ted Angus · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 25

Due to the nature of the participants on this thread - who wants to buy a pair of brand spankin' new patagonia crag master approach shoes in 13? 50usd shipped. a beautiful red color too. Shameless plug over.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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