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Our Life-long Tick List

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Ross Moslander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 0

So here's the thing: my wife and I have decided that we would like to put together what we will call our "Life-long Tick List". Corny, right? But we love climbing and we want to have goals that will keep us climbing for many years to come. We're thinking a list of 50 should suffice.
Now, what we don't want is to just pull from what we know or what we see on the cover of Climbing Magazine. So I would like input--any input. You have a favorite climb that you think we should do? Let me know. Hopefully with enough help we can put a list together that will take us all over the U.S. and Canada as keep us busy for years to come.
As far as what types of climbs we're looking for: anything--to an extent, of course. Neither of us will probably ever lead 5.12 trad or see the summit of Denali, but anything within the 5.10 and lower range is perfect. We want a little of everything if possible; sport, trad, single-pitch, multi-pitch, bouldering--you get the idea. And we really would love to see the tops of some cool peaks if the alpinsm required is not to technical.
So, if you happen to read this and somthing comes to mind, please, share it. We'll take all the advice we can get.
Thanks a lot.

j sittler · · Carbondale, CO · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0

I love that idea! Just did the Bastille Crack in Eldorado Canyon for the first time and it's as good as everyone says. Fun climb on a beautiful wall

Abram Herman · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 20

Epinephrine in Red Rocks, for sure.

mark felber · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 41

Braille Book, NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral, Serenity to Sons of Yesterday linkup, all in Yosemite Valley.

Little Bear to Blanca traverse in the Sangre de Cristo range, Colorado.

Casual Route on Long's Peak, Colorado (one short stretch of 5.10a).

Crescent Arch, Oz, Gram Traverse, Matthes Crest (all in Tuolumne Meadows)

East Ridge of Wolf's Head, the Wind River range.

East Ridge of Grand Teton, North Ridge of Middle Teton.

Thunderbolt to Sill traverse (or any part of it) in the Sierra Nevada range.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Dance Party · · Seattle, Wa · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 105

Outer Space in Leavenworth. 5.9 6 pitches. Great multi-pitch trad.

Ross Moslander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 0

This is great. I didn't expect so much so quickly. Thanks a lot. Can't wait to look into all these. Please, keep them coming.

Adam Brink · · trying to get to Sardinia · Joined Mar 2001 · Points: 560

The Scenic Cruise in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Everything about it makes it one of the best routes in the world.

Sagar Gondalia · · Golden · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 5

Bastille is fine, but for climbs within the grade you're seeking, there are FAR better routes in Eldo.

Here are a lot of 5.9 or easier routes I've thoroughly enjoyed over the years.

The Yellow Spur, Eldo, 6p, 5.9
The Grand Giraffe, Eldo, 5-6p, 5.9+ / 5.10a

The Flying Buttress, Mt Meeker, 5p, 5.9+

Middle Parallel Space, Vedauwoo, 1-2p, 5.9

The Mace, Sedona, 5p, 5.9+

Durrance, Devil's Tower, 4-6p, 5.7

Full Exum, Grand Teton, 5.7

Bapgar 1 · · Out of the Loop · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 90

Not to start a shit storm but I'd agree w/ Sagar on the vote for Yellow Spur as one of the top long routes in Eldo.

If you pushed me to pick one I'd probably say that you'd be hard pressed to do better than Over the Hill.

For the setting, especially if you bivy. I'd say that for the grade The Barb would be my must do suggestion for RMNP.

If you're in Joshua Tree: Walk on the Wild Side is the epitome of classic J-Tree slab.

James Willis · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined May 2013 · Points: 165

Pogue Ethic in the Red is probably my favorite pitch of 5.9 I've ever climbed.

Don Ferris III · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 186

I really like Potash Bong Hit at Wall Street in Moab. One of my favorite climbs. Most people could probably recommend better cracks in the area but as my first sandstone handcrack I found it super memorable.

rpc · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 775

"a list together that will take us all over the U.S. and Canada"

It's a big world out there with some amazing climbing - why limit yourselves?

Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,759

Do the T1.9 version of the route T2 to keep it at 5.9
Yellow Spur is great, but I think T2 has it beat:

Ron Olsen wrote:One of my favorite link-ups is a route I call "T 1.9": T2 without the first pitch. It's one of the longest and best 5.9s in Eldorado: 1. Start with Touch 'n Go, but traverse left on the ramp halfway up to the bolts and chains atop the first pitch of T2. 2. Traverse 30' left and take the second pitch of Jules Verne (5.8+) all the way to the upper ramp. This is one of the best 5.8 pitches in the canyon, and the bird poop on the upper part of the pitch isn't too bad these days. 3-7. Walk about 100' up the upper ramp and continue with upper T2. Three pitches of 5.9 followed by two easier but runout pitches take you to the saddle and the tree atop Upper Ruper. Descend via the Chockstone Chimney and Vertigo rappels. A 60m rope is useful for the Chockstone Chimney rappel. A classic Eldorado 5.9!
HighAbove · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0

Any route on the South Face of Prusik Peak in WA. There's a Beckey Route and the Stanley Burgner - both go at 5.9/5.9+.

Slesse! Is on my to-do list.

Someone mentioned Outer Space in Leavenworth WA; I'd strongly recommend Orbit if you're there - the grade's are more consistent.

Damienn Nicodemi · · nevada city, ca · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 76

Stolen Chimney in the Fisher Towers! Snake Dike or the NW Face of Half Dome.....Although they seem really obvious they are still spectacular!

Josh Allred · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 161

Pentapitch w/ Sasquatch variation, LCC, UT (5.9, 3 pitches). This was just featured in BD Catalog. There are also a lot of great lines to be had in LCC (Coffin, Bushwhack, Beckeys, Hook, Green A, etc).

Bishop's Terrace (my favorite 5.8 if combined for one pitch) and Nutcracker in Yosemite. I think they are some of the best 5.8's you'll ever find. Classic in every way - quick approach, rich history, beautiful rock and movement.

Any of the routes in Lone Peak Cirque, UT. Made Beckey's top 40 list, should be in yours.

Probably need to throw some desert towers in UT such as Ancient Art and Castleton.

Birdland (5.7, 600 ft) in Red Rocks.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

You should hike in and climb at:

The Gorge of Despair.

In the Fall, and use the packers to haul your stuff up to grizzly lake.

many granite towers, all 5th class, all fun.

no people go climbing there, no people even go there, 12 miles to walk ....

true wilderness

Ryan Hill · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 30

The Headache in Zion National Park. 3-pitch 5.10 that is easy to access, superb climbing, and a beautiful location. One of the few routes in Zion that you might see someone else on. While you are out there you should probably climb Iron Messiah and check out some of the lesser known classics in the area.

East Buttress of Mt. Whitney. 5.8 at 14,000' feet, spectacular location and you summit on the tallest peak in the Lower 48! Nearby Mt. Russel has some beautiful looking lines as well.

Ben Mackall · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 1,823

Thin Air 5.6 3P Cathedral Ledge, NH

Moby Grape 5.8 6P Cannon Cliff, NH

Whitney-Gilman Ridge 5.7 5P Cannon Cliff, NH

Monkey Face via Pioneer Route & Monkey off my back 5.8+ A0 5P, Smith Rock, OR

Ancient Art 5.10 4P (or 5.9 A0) Fischer Towers, UT

Air Blast 5.9+ (sport), Farley Ledge, MA

Lonesome Dove 5.10 (sport), Rumney, NH

Zig Zag Crack V1, Rumney, NH

Standard Route of the Gallatin Tower, 5.9 3P, Bozeman, MT

To name a few...

What an awesome idea. I should do this!

Ryan Watts · · Bishop, CA · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 25

+1 for Yellow Spur

Also:

Petit Grepon - South Face (8p, 5.8)
3rd Flatiron - East Face (~8p?, 5.4) - good solo or simul climb
Castleton Tower - North Chimney (2p, 5.9)
Frogland - Red Rocks (6p, 5.8)

Bouldering:

Jedi Mind Tricks - Buttermilks (V4)
Ironman Traverse - Buttermilks (V4)
Nobody Here Gets Out Alive - Hueco (V2)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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