Colorado Alpine Rock Conditions Summer 2014

kirkadirka wrote:Blitzen ridge was mostly dry as of Sunday. Still lots of snow up top.

With the bridge out, how did you approach to Blitzen?

Kristian Starheim wrote:Any one know how the conditions are on Kieners Route? We are going to Boulder for 2 weeks from the 8th to the 24th, and I wanted to try Kieners in our second week.

Climbed it on Friday (6/27). Snow is almost entirely avoidable on Broadway except for the short down climb. The chimneys were pretty wet and muddy but will probably be quite a bit drier a week from now. Uppers still had a bit of snow but it was very soft by 10 am but entirely avoidable by scrambling rock on climbers right. Diamond step around is dry.

Andy Hansen wrote: With the bridge out, how did you approach to Blitzen?

I crossed logs about 20 m downstream using poles when I did NE couloir on Sunday. Not that sketchy, but there are also shallow spots I would have been comfortable wading. I'm curious about his approach though as well as I am interested in approaching from the AVC, descending Donner or glissade the bowl between chiquita and ypsilon, climb Blitzen, and hike back to road.

Mt. Neva and Jasper are good conditions. Some snow for the last hundred+ feet of the approach to the climbs. You will have to descend the long way via Neva North Ridge or the east shoulder of Jasper.

As of 07/04/2014, the spiral route up Notchtop was completely dry.

Andy Hansen wrote: With the bridge out, how did you approach to Blitzen?

You can also head upstream a couple of hundred feet to find a perfect downed tree that spans the entire creek. Super solid, pretty wide, very easy.

Did Blitzen this Monday, perhaps my most fun day in the park ever! Definitely get on it!

Bump.

How are Indian Peaks looking? Specifically, Arapahoe Peaks traverse?

Can you drive to 4th of July TH?

Much appreciated!

Dan Vinson wrote:Bump. How are Indian Peaks looking? Specifically, Arapahoe Peaks traverse? Can you drive to 4th of July TH? Much appreciated!

You'll have to cross some water up on Arapahoe Pass. The 4th is open and busy. Ridgelines are dry and there was a good amount of snow around Diamond Lake. But it was great!

Anyone do Solitude Lake Cirque Traverse recently?

Hows the Maroon Bells Four Pass loop looking? Were heading up early august and some insight would be nice. Thanks!

Trail Conditions into Spearhead?
Has anyone made the hike?
Rumor has it that downed trees and other debris slow the approach.

Also on the topic of Spearhead, anyone done the North Ridge yet? Totally dry, good to go?

doug haller wrote:Trail Conditions into Spearhead? Has anyone made the hike? Rumor has it that downed trees and other debris slow the approach.

It's seriously no big deal. A bit of a snowfield up to the E face, but the routes are all dry (especially the N Ridge)

Like, if the snow on Spearhead was a football team, it would be the Oakland Raiders, and Brock Osweiler would play the second half.

Did North Ridge yesterday. Trail is in good shape, but it was really wet from a week of rain. The route was wet in spots from rain the previous day, and the moss was holding more moisture than I've ever seen. It's the slippery kind.
When it rained on us for the last pitch the moss (everywhere) was about as useful as verglas.
A dude doing the GG traverse reported to us similarly slimy conditions.

Any recent updates on Kieners route? Just wondering if it has dried out anymore since the last report (6/27).

Spearhead still has a large snow barrier blocking a few of the routes on the Northeast face. We got an alpine start for The Barb and the snow was hard and slick. We we're able to traverse on the rock slab at the base but we saw an party have much difficulty getting to Sykes. Maybe take light crampons if planning on these routes in the next couple of weeks

Doing Pervertical Sanctuary tomorrow...anyone know if its work wearing crampons to get to the N. Chimney? Anyone know if Pervertical is seeping?

Ellingwood Ledges on Crestone Needle was bone dry and spectacular on Friday.

LawHous wrote:Spearhead still has a large snow barrier blocking a few of the routes on the Northeast face. We got an alpine start for The Barb and the snow was hard and slick. We we're able to traverse on the rock slab at the base but we saw an party have much difficulty getting to Sykes. Maybe take light crampons if planning on these routes in the next couple of weeks

If you're gong in to bivy the night before, you can go up the snowfield before bed and kick super deep steps before the snow hardens overnight

BillyGoatSam wrote:Doing Pervertical Sanctuary tomorrow...anyone know if its work wearing crampons to get to the N. Chimney? Anyone know if Pervertical is seeping?

We were up there on Saturday and I'd take something like yak tracks at minimum for the last little bit between the boulders and the start of N. Chimney especially if you get there before the sun is up. We thought a light ice axe wouldn't be a bad idea either. Definitely felt sketchy in my approach shoes trying to kick steps and grabbing the snow with my belay gloves on!

These look like they would have been perfect:
kahtoola.com/product/k10-hi…