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Explain yourself

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

Heck, if Gregger Man ever wants to share with me some of his bolt removal wisdom, I will gladly buy him a case of beer or something...

The work and knowledge is appreciated.

Mike McHugh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 420

Greg's done soooooo much work in eldo. And manages to accommodate the weirdos (like me!) with grace and kindness. Thanks for being awesome.

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245

I'll admit I have but a few years of bolting experience and I don't really do it anymore. But upon learning about the issues around the world and the amount of time and money that is put into re-bolting, I came to the following conclusion (very quickly I might add):

Titanium glue ins are hands down the most durable and longest lasting option. In many cases certain types of stainless steel glue in bolts are also extremely resilient.

To use anything but the best materials the first time around is just a waste of time and money. By installing anything but high quality glue in bolts is kicking the can down the road, something we chastise our governments for all the time.

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

When it comes to dry climates, a Fixe Triplex (or ClimbTech Legacy bolt) is just as top-of-the-line and forward-thinking as a glue-in.

Both great, long term options in dry climates.

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,648
Patrick Shyvers wrote:Something I've been wondering about that plays in to Gregger Man's photo... the bolt is the piece with the highest replacement cost. So are there opportunities for cathodic protection? Simple example, use the hangar as the sacrificial anode. This concentrates any corrosion on the hangar, which is trivially replaced.
This isn't a good idea. Generally, having a sacrificial anode will induce localized pitting on the cathode (i.e. the stainless bolt) with will then lead to localized corrosion and weakening of the bolt much more quickly then just using like metals.
Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,759
teece303 wrote:Heck, if Gregger Man ever wants to share with me some of his bolt removal wisdom, I will gladly buy him a case of beer or something... The work and knowledge is appreciated.
Send me the dates/times you are available. I've got many more anchors that look like Werk Supp did on my radar. I'll talk tools all day if you like.
Matt.H Haron · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 185

I apologize for my original post. What I said was a total jerk move. Im sorry to those of you i offended, I am underqualified to judge the placement of a bolt and was totally off base. Sorry about that guys, but thanks for setting me straight. I learned more through this. Once again, I apologize for my statement.

Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,759
Matty H wrote:I apologize for my original post. What I said was a total jerk move. Im sorry to those of you i offended, I am underqualified to judge the placement of a bolt and was totally off base. Sorry about that guys, but thanks for setting me straight. I learned more through this. Once again, I apologize for my statement.
No worries, Matty.
This post was quite productive, actually. Anything that gets more climbers interested in route maintenance is fine by me. If you see other bolts that you think are ticking time bombs, photograph them and post 'em up.
Cheers,
-gg
Patrick Shyvers · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 10
Matty H wrote:I apologize for my original post. What I said was a total jerk move. Im sorry to those of you i offended, I am underqualified to judge the placement of a bolt and was totally off base. Sorry about that guys, but thanks for setting me straight. I learned more through this. Once again, I apologize for my statement.
Now that's a sign of strong character!
Hank Caylor · · Livin' in the Junk! · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 643

I clipped this on Ottos Route this morning. I think it's the same bolter.

Mank

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35
Patrick Shyvers wrote: Now that's a sign of strong character!
I disagree. He was overwhelmingly wrong so had no choice but to admit it.

A strong character asks questions about things they don't know rather than flying off the handle.
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com · · Tucson/DMR · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 2,751
nicelegs wrote: I disagree. He was overwhelmingly wrong so had no choice but to admit it. A strong character asks questions about things they don't know rather than flying off the handle.
Nah, I think he was strong to apologize.

Well done Matt.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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