Setting up anchors in an Wilderness Area
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And I'd like to wisely invest in the right tools. |
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It's usually best to go to established areas, especially trad areas when you want to put up bolts. Most people are too lazy to put up bolts, but they'll be super grateful when you do it. Focus on really popular routes that don't seem like they have enough bolts already. There, you'll get a lot of feedback from area climbers on where exactly you can put your bolts. |
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JasonP wrote:It's usually best to go to established areas, especially trad areas when you want to put up bolts. Most people are too lazy to put up bolts, but they'll be super grateful when you do it. Focus on really popular routes that don't seem like they have enough bolts already. There, you'll get a lot of feedback from area climbers on where exactly you can put your bolts.Jason, the OP is looking for a shopping list. Have you hand drilled any routes? |
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i have used Bosch sds bits for years and never spent more than $10 for a 3/8". Depending on the rock bolt sizes range from 2.25" to 3.5"..for granite i like a 2.75 powers powerstud for longevity, though a 2.25 is plenty strong. |
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If you're going to be installing or replacing anchors in wilderness, please do us all a favor and use stainless. Yes, it costs ~50% more, however it is likely that those anchors will be there for a very long time before they are replaced again. |
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John, Jeff: Thank you |
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I've always been really curious why the Petzl drill bit for the RocPec costs $50. That's about 5 times the price of even other premium bits. It's weird. |
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teece303 wrote:I've always been really curious why the Petzl drill bit for the RocPec costs $50.For (bolting) newbies like us that don't know any better right out of the gate. I am glad that I asked. So thanks again for the useful (patient) replies). |
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Make sure the bolts you use have an ICC-ES approval if they are not specifically designed for climbing. It is the construction industry's equivalent(ish) to a CE approval. Better quality control and testing. Hilti, Powers, ITW-Redhead and a few others have that approval. |
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J. - I haven't drilled a lot by hand but I have drilled well over 1,000 bolts with a hammer drill at work. I have mostly used Bosch SDS bits since the late 80's, and they hold up quite well. You can sharpen the carbide tips as they dull, by using a diamond abrasive (Do a search for Eze Lap. They used to make a tongue depressor sized sharpening plate, perfect for the mountains.) |
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CM - I feel 5/16" or even 1/4" button heads are acceptable if they are temporary. I feel if these little time bombs are placed they should be upgraded at the soonest opportunity. Leaving anything less than stainless 3/8" as permanent protection is irresponsible route development. |
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In high quality granite, a 5/16" is plenty strong. BUT they are harder to place properly and come in limited sizes. A 2.25"x 3/8 ' isn't that much more drilling and much stronger. |
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In my limited experience, 3/8" by 2.25" in granite is easy enough to drill that I would not feel ok leaving behind anything else. And strength is surprisingly not hugely correlated to length in hard rock like granite, so the shorter bolt really isn't a bad compromise at all (again, in a hard rock like granite). |
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Agreed.. longer bolts like 3.5" and such really are better for stuff like Tuff and such. i have used plenty of 2.25' powers and they are fine in good rock. |
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john strand wrote:Spend your money on a good hammerWhat's a suggestion for a good hammer? |
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I may be completely wrong but I was under the impression it's illegal to bolt in wilderness areas?? |
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Nick Votto wrote:I may be completely wrong but I was under the impression it's illegal to bolt in wilderness areas?? If it's not then I have a couple projects in mind myself.....Illegal to power drill, and certain wilderness areas have their own policies (e.x. the Superstition wilderness near Phoenix, AZ) that ban bolts, but typically bolts are allowed as long as they are hand-drilled. |
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J. Broussard wrote: What's a suggestion for a good hammer?The best drilling hammer is the old A5 but they are rare now and super $$ and you can't have mine ! i have not used the petzl but other like it OK The BD is a bout your best choice..if you look around, maybe $50-75. it's got decent weight and a good pick to flatten out the rock. I have always thought that traditional framing hammers are silly for hand drilling. |
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Alex McIntyre wrote: Illegal to power drill, and certain wilderness areas have their own policies (e.x. the Superstition wilderness near Phoenix, AZ) that ban bolts, but typically bolts are allowed as long as they are hand-drilled.Thanks Alex, I was specifically thinking of a few spots way out in the Trinity Alps, amazing walls, lots pretty devoid of natural pro. If I ever get to it I'll be sure to talk to the Trinity rangers. |
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Check your specific area, and always follow a wilderness ethic, but I'll go out on a limb and say that it is legal to *hand drill* bolts in most wilderness areas. I think the default policy is legality for wilderness area bolts: specific places have to override the default. You can't use a power drill in any wilderness area. |
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Check out rapbolting.com. Fixe tends to nail you on shipping, I really love the climbtech hangers, they are quite shiny though. Stainless hangers are around 2.60 each. |