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Inspiration or Perspiration
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 2.8 from 8
votes
Routes in Parking Lot Rock - Northeast
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Bombs Over Tripoli S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cairo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Inspiration or Perspiration S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Thin Slice T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Bill Boyle |
| Page Views: | 1,747 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Past User on Jun 29, 2014 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
A long and varied route! Boyle certainly had an eye for the odd! Or was it just that the obvious plums had already been plucked? Powerful and tricky moves down low on a grainy and lichen covered slab give way to a taxing undercling sequence about a third of the way up. A short section of tricky face climbing with great patina crimps set you up on a long gritty, lichen covered slab with spaced out bolts (supplemental gear- see protection section). Finally, above the slab you get to the goods- overhanging granite huecos! Underclings, slopers, delicate stems and sneaky crack climbing skills are needed for this enduro finale. A very airy and pumpy finish! 12a power down low, and 12b endurance at the top. Many bolts are poorly placed in difficult to clip locations... as far as I can tell this is the timestamp of the early Boyle routes.
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