Best Alpine Boot

What's your favorite alpine approach boot/shoe? I'm in the market for something that is crampon compatible and can handle snow, but is lightweight and walks better than a regular mountain boot. Any suggestions?

It depends on what you are talking about when you say alpine. The best way to get answers would be to put up a list of specific routes on specific mountains.

Are you looking for a crampon compatible mountain boot, or a hiking boot that can accept crampons? I think you might be better off looking at something in the vein of kahtoola crampons, which can strap onto most styles of shoes/boots. If you're looking for a technical mountain boot, maybe La Sportiva's Trango S series?

Do you want a full shank boot? The shank contributes a lot of weight and is a big part of why mountain boots walk so funny. However it is a godsend when you are on your crampon's toe points. So I guess what I am asking is, do you plan to do anything steep where you are on your toes? Or do you desire crampons for traveling on relatively flat ground.

I suppose that I am going back and forth as to whether I want a shoe that is more oriented towards snow climbing, and therefore I am willing to sacrifice weight and comfort, or whether I want a heavy duty approach shoe such as the Boulder X high tops. I'm sick of lugging around my Scarpa Mont Blancs in a pack while climbing. I know that the shoe type highly depends on where I will be climbing and in what season, but that changes often for me, so I want to find something in the middle. I just wanted to ask around and see what most folks like using. Say for example you're roping up in the North Cascades doing some glacier travel and some technical rock, which type of shoe would you choose?

If you are going to tackle technical rock and snow with the same boot, a typical mountaineering boot is probably your best choice.

- High tops, waterproof, & welts are all good things for snow no matter the boot.

- High tops & shank are good for technical rock.

I'm curious why you throw your Mont Blancs in your pack. Are you climbing dry rock in the warm sun and wearing rock shoes? If I'm not wearing a rock climbing slipper, my #2 choice would be my Nepal Evo's. They are nothing like a rock climbing slipper, yes, but with the high top & shank you can stand on some _tiny_ features.

If you're in the backcountry rock climbing a 5.10, yes, you can't wear the boots. But at that point I'd cache the boots at the base of the climb.

Scarpa Rebel Carbon GTX

http://www.mountaingear.com/webstore//Footwear/Rebel-GTX-Carbon-Boot-Men-s/_/R-232398.htm?voucherCode=979100&gclid=CJ3utIfGor8CFUlqfgodiGEANQ

Feels like a light hiker/approach shoe; takes crampons; awesome summer alpine boot.

Discontinued, but you can still find them online.

thealpinestart.com/2013/07/…

Are you thinking strap-on crampon, semi-auto or full-auto? Consider the weight of the crampon in the equation: strap-ons are typically heavier than full-autos. And what are you climbing in said crampons?

How much walking are you doing? What kind of technical rock? Most alpine boots don't smear well but they can hold a small edge!

There are a lot of good options out there... pick the ones that fit your feet best. They're all high-tech, well designed and solidly built. But they all fit different... best to head to a well-stocked shop and try them all on. Too many good choices to list.

Approach shoe: Any good trail running shoe. My current favorite is The North Face 109 GTX. I like the better support of a trail runner.

Alpine boot: Scarpa Charmoz. I've climbed Shasta and steeper alpine ice. Not a full shank, and not warm enough for winter, but a great summer alpine boot and stiff enough for alpine ice. I'm happy climbing rock in them too when needed. I use hybrid BD Sabertooth crampons.

JV